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Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 22:12:05 -0400
From: "Cinda Cawley" <lrcawleydmv.com>

Oella is across the Patapsco River from Ellicott City home of the 
Quilting Assoc. and the Baltimore Applique Society. According to 
A New Guide to the Old Line State, the update of the original WPA 
guide to
Maryland (if it's not in this book it probably doesn't exist--at 
least in
Maryland), "Oella Ave. leads to a restored mill town founded in 1809 
by the
Union Manufacturing Co. The company christened it 865 acres Oella,
allegedly after one of the first women in America to spin cotton. 
company operated thousands of water-powered, mechanical spindles and
produced hundreds of thousand of cotton textiles during the early and
mid-19th century."
That's all I know about Oella--sounds like myth to me.
Cinda on the Eastern Shore


Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 00:10:28 -0500
From: Jennifer Perkins <qltrstoreharlannet.com>

IMHO, the seller of this chintz quilt dated it as 1930's because she 
that the fabrics were bright with the red prints, the Prussian blue, 
ombre prints, not dark like the turn-of-the century quilts. This is 
obviously an 1840-1850 quilt, that blue color is so distinctive and 
never been successfully reproduced. What do you all think? Also, 
medallion style and broderie perse surrounded by the half/square 
borders, it just reminds me so much of the 1840's quilt I 
Yellow Quilt-it just has to be of the same era. If you saw this 
you'd know it right away.

Jennifer in Iowa-thinking this would be a fun quilt to try to 


Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 01:39:47 -0400
From: "J. G. Row" <Judygrowrcn.com>

>There is also a "homespun" quilt on there that is said to be pre-CW.
>I would like to get some discussion going on it.


I clicked on and enlarged the photo of the homespun quilt folded, the 
of the photos. I don't really know about the fabrics, but the 
quilting is
in the Baptist (Methodist) Fan, or elbow, quilting. I thought that 
kind of
quilting wasn't seen until very, very late 19th century.

Perhaps the fabrics are earlier, but quilted later?


Judy in Ringoes, NJ

(click on the thumbnails)

999458961715_quilt.jpg (27865 bytes) 999458950050_quilt4.jpg (103298 bytes) 999458956238_quilt2.jpg (137951 bytes) 999458952990_quilt3.jpg (125103 bytes) 999458948548_quilt6.jpg (68861 bytes)


Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 08:12:03 +0100
From: "Sally Ward" <Sally.D.Wardbtinternet.com>

> IMHO, the seller of this chintz quilt dated it as 1930's because 
she saw
> that the fabrics were bright with the red prints, the Prussian 
blue, the
> ombre prints, not dark like the turn-of-the century quilts.

Indeed, but its a common misconception that British 
quilts were dark. Everyone is so familiar with the dark clothing and
oppressive interiors favoured by Victoria that the light, bright 
being made at the time can come as a surprise. (This is something 
commented on during her visit this summer)

> medallion style and broderie perse surrounded by the half/square 
> borders,

There are little things about this quilt which make it feel 'right' 
to me
(and I have to emphasise that I am very much an amateur in the 
Looking at it closely, on the first 'frame' around the centre panel 
strip of half square triangles was just arbitrarily cut off at the 
where the length of the border suited the maker, in contrast with the
beautifully accurate points on the centre star, and careful applique 
of the
chintz cut-outs. A maker of a repro quilt would surely labour hard 
not to
have these 'flaws' and yet it is so very common in our frame quilts 
it was
obviously not seen as a mistake, just a sensible way of proceeding. 
And the
sheer range of fabrics. I am trying to find out more about repro 
production in the UK but I am not at all sure that we had (or wanted) 
available in the 30s as there seems to have been in the US.

I'm also intrigued by the little I can see of the stitching around 
applique, which seems more like crewel work than the sort of 
stitching we
normally see in similar work.

The more I look at this quilt the more I think it is a stunner.

Sally W


Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 20:53:49 +1000
From: Lorraine Olsson <svenpnc.com.au>

My first thoughts on this piece are that it is a 1920s piece. Now, I 
am not an
but I have other 1920s pieces, particularly a 9 patch, which has a 
mix of
fabrics, mostly cotton, but also a fabric that could be (as stated) a
wool/cotton mix.
To me the colours are consistent with that era, and the size of the 
quilt is
also speaks this date.
This would tie the fan quilting in as to being quilted at the time it 
made.(if that makes sense)
Any other thoughts?? Please look at it and comment.

Lorraine in Oz

> Perhaps the fabrics are earlier, but quilted later?
> http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1461948759
> Judy in Ringoes, NJ
> judygrowrcn.com


Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 08:02:14 -0400
From: "Alan R. Kelchner" <quiltfixbellsouth.net>

I inquired of the seller - it IS 1830, she made a typo as I had 
She says she'll let me know when she re-lists it, and I'll let you 
know in



Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 08:30:43 -0500
From: Laura Hobby Syler <texas_quilt.coairmail.net>

My gut reaction, without getting my "mits" on it is to agree with
Lorraine. I'd like to know if the owner/seller has done tests on the
fibers to determine the content. I've done too many restoration jobs 
this type of quilt to believe the earlier date listed. Just MHO...
in soggy and windy N. Texas
and about 20 miles east of the tornado yesterday afternoon


Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 09:07:28 -0500
From: Bettina Havig <bettinaqcsocket.net>

One more piece of the puzzle relating to the dates of various 
printings of
The Romance of the Patchwork Quilt. I spoke to Scott Gipson who is
publisher of Caxton Printers, Ltd. and got this information. They 
the first printing of the book in 1935, a second in 1936 without the
original color plates, a third in 1947. In 1960 they sold the rights 
print the book to Bonanza, a division of Crown Publishers. Bonanza 
exclusive rights to reprint unitl 1980 when their agreement expired. 
1988 Dover acquired the world rights to reprint the book, in 
paperback only,
until such time as they discontinued printing or distribution of the 
At that time rights revert to Caxton. Caxton still holds the 
copyright which
they renewed in 1963.
At least we can now brackett the time frames for the reprints.
There were only 1500 copies in the original print run. So happy 
Bettina Havig 


Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 10:40:30 -0400
From: Newbie Richardson <pastcraftserols.com>
Thanks for the review of the Vintage Textile sale in Sturbridge. It
has been a sale to go to on my very long list of things to see!
For those of you who do not know me, I am a costume appraiser,
historian, and textile conservator with 25 years experience and
The primary reason that most of the surviving antique and vintage
clothing we see is so small is that it was packed away as a 
of a woman's youth. Most of us were thinner in our teens and 
than after kids and middle age spread! I KNOW that I can no longer 
into my debutante or wedding dresses! But they along with some really
wonderful suits - are packed away and pulled out periodically. Trust 
we have plenty of larger sized pieces in our museum collections! 
only in the last half of the 20th c. do we see clothing as 
rather than recyclable. Most people remade and remade their clothes. 
have LOTS of those in our museum collections as well. there was not 
much to work with either to remake or to recycle in the smaller 
Historically people were really not that much smaller in the 18th 
19th c. We have benefitted from better nutrition, certainly - and all
that poly visol we gave our babies! Modern nutrition has increased 
mass. Also intermarriage between traditionally tall Northern European
immegrants and shorter ethnic groups has helped spread "big" genes.
Also, upper and middle class women did not exercise, did not play 
or swim, did not pick up their own babies (you got down to them - 
the "lady's chair"), or their own groceries. There was no upper body
developement. Corsetry had nothing to do with it! Thus armscyes were
smaller, as were ribcages.
Finally, our own daughters are much broader through the back and 
cage than most of us. They are the first generation to benefit from
Title IX - sports equality. They were playing soccer in Kindergarten,
swim teaming in the summer, rowing crew in high school. 
I took bridal measurements for 7 years. The measurement that has
changed dramatically is the ribcage: not the bust, the waist, or the
hip. The only exception are the recently immigrated Asian or Eastern
European girls who did not have the sports culture from the time they
were tots. 
Please put to bed the urban myth that "people were smaller back 
Newbie Richardson
Past Crafts Studios
Appraisals and Conservation of Historic Textiles
Alexandria, Va.


Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 11:41:37 -0400
From: "Cinda Cawley" <lrcawleydmv.com>

I too thought fan quilting was a late 19th century style until I saw 
it used
on quilts in the Calico and Chintz exhibit of early 19th cen. quilts.
Cinda on the Eastern Shore


Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 11:54:46 -0400
From: Judy White <jawhiteinfi.net>

Thanks Newbie for your interesting post on vintage clothes. I had 
thought about middle and upper class women not exercising or
particularly not picking up their own children. That will really 
the upper chest muscles. And you are probably correct about the 
being put away without being worn very much. All of the outfits I 
which were supposedly from the 18th century, had seen very little use 
in fact they looked almost new - not 20th century new, but old new. 

Judy White


Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 15:31:42 -0400
From: "J. G. Row" <Judygrowrcn.com>
To: "

Hi gang.

I posted to THE expert on woven fabrics, Rabbit Goody, about that 
quilt on
e-bay. Following a copy of my post to her is her answer to me.


>There is a quilt on e-bay that is stirring some discussion on the 
>History List. Would you be so kind as to click on the hyperlink 
below and
>let me know what you think?

>I clicked on and enlarged the photo of the homespun quilt folded, 
the last
>of the photos. I don't really know about the fabrics, (You are the 
>here) but the quilting is in the Baptist (Methodist) Fan, or elbow,
>quilting. I thought that kind of quilting wasn't seen until very, 
>late 19th century.

>Perhaps the fabrics are earlier, but quilted later?


>Thanks for helping out. A lot of people are interested in knowing 
>this, not necessarily bidding on it.

Rabbit's answer:
>Hey Judy thanks for asking about it. I think the majority of 
fabrics are
>early mill fabrics and not Home spun at all. Many are cotton warp, 
>filling and there is a lot of common jean twill.

>The type of quilting for utilitarian everyday quilts is popular 
the >1860's and probably earlier. I see it in southern civil war 
era poor

>I have decided to bid on the quilt as I think for studying early 
fabrics it >is a good one so if I get it you'll be able to spend 
time with
it some time

Me again:

If Rabbit wins the quilt we all will benefit in study times with her.

Judy in Ringoes, NJ


Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 17:24:11 -0700
From: "La Belle Collectibles" <helenlabellecollectibles.com>

Content-Type: text/plain;
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hello all. I'm a new member of the list and very pleased to have 
found =
such a high caliber discussion on quilts. I've collected quilts and 
schoolgirl samplers for many years now. Last year I bowed out of the 
corporate rat race and this summer launched my own online antique 
store, =
La Belle Collectibles. I can't tell you how much fun it is to be =
working at a 'job' that involves a passion!! For years I have 
collected =
based on what appealed to me with less regard to the art & history of 
the actual fabrics & patterns. Now that I'm fortunate enough to have 
the time to begin researching & learning, I've purchased a number of 
great reference books and am immersing myself in them. I would 
greatly =
appreciate your recommendations on seminars & workshops that you 
think =
have particular value to supplement my reading. The search engines 
turn up names but I would appreciate your experience & comments on 
the =
quality of the seminars. Thank you very much & I look forward to =
learning more from each of the great discussions on the list. =20


Helen Hodack



Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 20:32:32 -0400
From: "Suzanne Cawley" <ccawleyalleganyinternet.net>
To: "Quilt History List" <QHLcuenet.com>
Subject: QHL: More on Huswifs
Message-ID: <002501c13734$b6ae7c40$af66f5cc363f701>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

First let me say thanks to everyone who wrote about their experiences 
textile soaks, etc. Lynn Gorges' project sounds like quite an
undertaking.....and I hope she will share her results with the group. 
I am
sure that a publication would be interested in publishing the
findings....just as some have published info about batting tests, 

I have read the comments about huswifs with much interest. I have 
liked them and e-mailed Phyllis to let her know how jealous I was 
that she
had acquired one. Phyllis and I have been friends for over 35 years 
were in preschool when we met....ha, ha!) so we are allowed to drool 
each other's new finds!

Anyway, for those of you who would like to purchase some "smalls" 
such as
huswifs, pockets, pillowcases, crib and doll quilts.....just a
reminder....buyer beware! I saw an interesting exhibit several years 
ago at
an Adamstown (near Lancaster, PA) antique mall that had many fakes,
including about five huswifs. These were items that had been 
recently made
from antique fabrics but had been sold to the dealers as originals. 
surely gave the sellers a great return on their investment. I was 
that the dealers thought enough of their customers to put on such an
exhibit. It certainly reinforced the importance of buying from a 
source or someone who can establish an item's provenance.

This exhibit also reminded me to properly label any reproduction 
items I
might make; especially those made from antique fabrics. Although I 
not pass them off as original; others could do so if labels are not
"embedded" in the item. You have probably heard all this before; 
but the
recent huswif discussions reminded me of that wonderful exhibit.

Suzanne in Keyser, WV

Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 22:35:33 -0400
From: "J. G. Row" <Judygrowrcn.com>


You must be talking about the exhibit at Marilyn Kowaleski's shop. I
believe those items were all marked as reproductions, and were for 
sale as

Barb Garrett there? Do you remember? I remember that we had a 
about the exhibit at the time, but I forget what we said. Or what 
said -- as you knew all about it.

Judy in Ringoes, NJ



Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 06:41:45 -0500
From: "Leigh Fellner" <hcquiltspeoplepc.com>

>I inquired of the seller - it IS 1830, she made a typo as I had 
>She says she'll let me know when she re-lists it, and I'll let you 
know in

Welll.....aside from the fact that the 1930s date appears both in the
auction title and in the text, here's what the seller said to me in 
her 2d
email to me:

"I bought it at a general house auction and it came with no history 
at all.
I...know ZERO about quilts....I asked another dealer for her opinion 
of the
age...she guessed about the 30's but I have to admit that I have no 
myself and it could be any age."


Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 06:42:03 -0400
From: Barb Garrett <bgarrettfast.net>

Good Morning All -

Since DD #2 finally went back to college last weekend (and I got sole
possession of my car back <grin>) I was able to get to Baltimore for 
wonderful Maryland Historical Society quilt exhibit. It's been
extended another week, so if you can go, you should. And they have 
extremely well done catalog -- in Japanese and English -- that
accompanies the exhibit. They will mail the book -- that's how I 
mine last spring. For information and an on line quilt show --

Now my question -- I had bookmarked this auction and am curious about
the names of the quilts listed on the invoice. Click to enlarge the
picture and you can read the invoice -- I interpret it to be fabric
sold, not quilts -- am I right? Are alhambra and elmora types of
fabric from that time? The price seems very high if it's a per yard
price, based on my interpretation that the date is 12-14-14. Could
they be for a bolt, since he's a wholesaler? Any help in 
this invoice will be greatly appreciated.


Thanks for your help. After my 2 day visit to Baltimore I've got
another quiltie treat today -- I'm off to see list mom Kris and 
-- they are at a festival an hour from my house in Bird In Hand 
Lancaster, PA. It will be great to see the "new" bus -- last time I
saw it, it was a rather sad vehicle.

Barb in southeastern PA


Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 09:00:36 -0500
From: Laura Hobby Syler <texas_quilt.coairmail.net>
To: Barb Garrett <bgarrettfast.net>

Hi Barb,
I would tend to think that since the numbers are under the heading of
YDS, that this is fabric not finished quilts. Would you think that 
would be wholesaling "finished quilts" at that time?
Give Kris a hug for me. Miss seeing her at shows down here!


Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 09:24:01 -0500
From: "Leigh Fellner" <hcquiltspeoplepc.com>

Anybody here know anything about Quadriga Cloth? I know that it was
manufactured c.1926-c.1967 and that many patterns were in print 
that run...and that's about it. From what I've seen of the line, my 
and completely uneducated guess is that at least some of those prints 
themselves reproductions (or adaptations) of 19th century designs; I 
one piece I am pretty sure is QC that is identical in design to a 
piece of
c.1900 calico in my stash. Were these an earlier generation's 
version of
our current Aunt Grace 1930s reproductions? If so, I'd love to 
use one of the old Mountain Mist patterns to recreate a 1930s repro 
of a
19th c. quilt - if that makes any sense!

Anyway, I've got 2 different lengths of the same print which differ 
just a
tiny bit - one was (unfortunately I had to launder it) crisper, like 
percale, almost slightly glazed; the other has a much softer hand. 
washing they are more similar but still have subtle differences, and 
without looking I can still distinguish between them. I've taken 
closeups of face and back (including selvage) of each. If anyone 
could help
me either with determining which is older, or has any info on 
Cloth, I'd be very grateful!


Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 08:31:09 -0700
From: "Laurette Carroll" <rj.carrollverizon.net>
Hello Qhl'ers

Leigh I own 2 large sample books of Quadriga Cloth from the late 
Included are many calico fabrics that look like those of the late
1800's, including double pinks and yellow and red small prints.
They are not sold as "reproduction", but as "old fashioned and always 
For an example see "The American Quilt", by Rodney Kirakofe, page 36. 
you email me and send a picture or describe your fabric I will look
through the sample books to see if it's there.

Laurette Carroll
Southern California

Look to the Future with Hope


Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 11:57:29 EDT
From: Xroadclownaol.com

I'm looking for information on quilting in Australia/New Zealand, 
there soon, and would like some connections! thanks in advance
Melanie in Beautiful Ithaca New York


Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 14:30:57 -0400
From: "Cinda Cawley" <lrcawleydmv.com>

I actually do know something about Quadriga Cloth. However, a quick 
of usual spots did not turn up my notes. I am actually trying to dig 
my way
out from the chaos of moving (made some progress today on my books). 
tell you what I remember. Quadriga Cloth was distributed by Ely 
Walker, a
fabric wholesaler established in St. Louis circa 1870. Very early on 
began selling those timeless prints which are known as Quadriga 
Cloth. I
have yardage I bought about 10 years ago (admittedly it had been on 
shelf awhile) which is identical to fabric in a quilt in my 
collection which
dates from the 1880s.
Ely Walker came to dominate the market in the American Midwest.
Sometime around 1960 it was taken over by Burlington Industries which
continued to sell the same prints under the Ely Walker name until 
in the 1980s. I have corresponded with a man who worked for Ely 
Walker for
twenty-five years starting in the late 1940s. Those notes are here
somewhere and when I find them I'll make sure my facts are correct 
and share
any other goodies.
A very interesting little tidbit is that David Walker (the 
co-founder of
the firm) had a son named George Herbert Walker who had a daughter 
Dorothy who married Prescott Bush. Their son is George Herbert 
Walker Bush
and, of course, their grandson is George W. Bush. Ah, the influence 
Laurette, please tell me more about the sample books you have. 
Is there
any information printed in them? Where did you find them? How many 
etc, etc?
Cinda on the Eastern Shore


Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 11:40:12 -0700
From: "Ellen King" <eskingrcsis.com>

I just bought a charming quilt from (China?) that has bunnies on it 
(I =
love bunnies), but it was rough to the skin. It never occurred to me 
to =
check the fabric content, because I thought all were 100% cotton or =
cotton/polyester. Well, this one is cotton/ramie. Any comments on 
the =
longevity, whether it will ever feel soft? or?
Ellen King


Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 11:48:02 -0700
From: "Laurette Carroll" <rj.carrollverizon.net>
To: "

Hello QHL and Cinda,

The 2 Quadriga Cloth sample books are large, dated 1937 and 1938. 
with samples of a very nice quality cotton in all the wonderful and
interesting prints of the 1930's.

The books are put out by "Ely & Walker, St. Louis, Manufacturers,
converters, and distributors."

I counted once and I think there were about 1500 different cloth 
in each book.

The "old fashioned" type prints are called "Quaker Chintz Prints".
As I said in a previous email,......For an example see "The American
Quilt", by Rodney Kirakofe, page 36.

Laurette Carroll
Southern California

Look to the Future with Hope

> Laurette, please tell me more about the sample books you have. 
> any information printed in them? Where did you find them? How 
> etc, etc?
> Cinda on the Eastern Shore


Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 17:03:03 -0500
From: "Carol Butzke" <butzkenconnect.net>
To add to the discussion of Methodist/Baptist fan or elbow quilting. 
I own
a Lemoyne star quilt with cheddar and fugitive green (now 
yellow/green) star
points with double pink alternating squares with a circa of 1870. It 
has an
overall pattern of fan quilting.

Not so different from our foremothers, we still like quilting 
patterns that
are easy to execute.

Carol Butzke