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Subject: Women's History Month (The Ruff) From: "sue reich"

Adams Sentinel Gettysburg, Pennsylvania February 5, 1849

The Ruff in Queen Elizabeth's time. -- It is stated in a modern popular work, that the most distinguished characteristic in Queen Elizabeth's day, was the ruff. It was worn of such an enormous size that a lady in full dress was obliged to feed herself with a spoon two feet long ! These ruffs increased at such as alarm- ing rate that in 1580 sumptuary laws became necessary, to reduce them to reasonable dimensions. When these ruffs were first introduced they were of fine Holland; but early in Elizabeth's reign, they were made of lawn and cam- bric, manufactured on the Continent, im- ported in very small quantities, and sold at an extravagant price. A writer of that day describing this lawn says, "so strange and so wonderful was this stuff, that thereupon rose a general scoff or bye-word, that shortly they would wear ruffs of a spider's web."

sue reich ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject: FVF From: "Lucinda Cawley" <lrcawleycomcast.net> Date:

Fran's Vintage Friends met in Meyersville, MD on Monday. There are views there which haven't changed since the Civil War (Antietam is not far away). We were, of course, looking at quilts. A beautiful Basket quilt (3rd quarter 19th cen.)came all the way from Texas for our inspection. The baskets are filled with flowers and birds (3 different species) are perched on the handles. The baskets are set without sashing and oriented toward the center. There's a narrow half-square triangle border and wide border of appliqued birds and flowers. Fran had her sister's wedding quilt, a Grandmothers Flower Garden made in 1939 by the ladies of the First congregational Church of Chester, NJ (see p. 204 of New Jersey Quilts by Rachel Cochran et al.). We saw lots of neat sewing items: a turquoise blue enameled thimble case in the shape of a walnut; a ribbon chatelaine possibly Shaker; a whole collection of housewives pretty much spanning the 19th century. There was an exquisite handmade lace tablecloth from Venice, c. 1900 and a carriage rug with multicolored spiral designs and a double scalloped border. I often joke about my identical-twin-separated-at-birth Suzanne Cawley, but I'm beginning to believe my own story. She and I share a real love for the weird in the world of quilts. It's been a long time since I've seen anything quite as strange as Suzanne's vintage appliqued carrot blocks (obviously affected by some horrible blight) and the quilt appliqued with 64 squat red bells. In the center was embroidered "40th anniv." There was a great top alternating 9-Patches with Ohio Stars in many 1830-1860 fabrics and a Crosses and Losses top from New England with just about every madder brown print you could imagine with fussy cut sashes and cornerstones. Another pink and green top (PA, of course) had plus signs appliqued in the borders. We saw two sets of circa 1870 blocks (Album and Flying Geese) bought on Ebay where they were listed as 1940s. A red, white and green Pine Tree quilt (1920s) was found in a Schenectady, NY church rummage sale with a picture labeled "Forbidden Fruit Tree." Peggy Armstrong told us about the plans for the Franklin Co., PA quilt documentation. Exciting to think that we have another book and exhibit to look forward to. Cinda on the Eastern Shore until tomorrow a.m.


Subject: Re: the Ruff From: Laura Robins-Morris <lrobinsfhcrc.org>

I can't imagine being able to make it through a meal without dripping something on the Ruff. Those poor laundry maids must have worked their fingers to the bone. (Or perhaps the ruff would encourage the wearer to eat very little! I could try it...)

I'm not sure I believe the 2 foot long spoons. Nevertheless, eating and staying clean would be a trick. Laura in Seattle

>Adams Sentinel >Gettysburg, Pennsylvania >February 5, 1849 > >The Ruff in Queen Elizabeth's time. >-- It is stated in a modern popular work, >that the most distinguished characteristic >in Queen Elizabeth's day, was the ruff. >It was worn of such an enormous size >t a lady in full dress was obliged to >feed herself with a spoon two feet long ! >...... > > >


Subject: Textile terminology From: Jackie Joy <

Another fascinating book on the production of textiles as it affected society in colonial America (and after) is The Age of Homespun : Objects and Stories in the Creation of an American Myth by Laurel Thatcher Ulrich.

Jackie Joy


Subject: Tight lacing and ruffs From: "Newbie Richardson"

Sue is doing us all a service with her wonderful newspaper excerpts. However, The National Enquirer did not come out of a vacuum, as the last two articles prove. Tight lacing: Our poor Victorian ancestress have gotten a bad rap in the corset department. Did some women tight lace - certainly, just as some of my daughters' friends are anorexic or bulimic for the sake of fashion. However, these were in the very small minority. Did the average single young woman tight lace - somewhat, when she was dressed for a party, but then only about 2" smaller in the waist, and not long enough to compromise her rib cage or organs. The small minority that were of the leisure class, and had no other social outlet other than fashion, did in some cases become so dependent on the support of the whalebone corset, that they were indeed unable to be comfortable without wearing one. That was due to the lack of any physical exercise and to the fact that they had no muscle development to support their torso - sort of like developing a ektoskeleton ( like lobsters). Finally, a tightly laced corset merely redistributes flesh - both up and down. If you look carefully, there are pooches of flesh just below the armholes and along the top of the corset where the shoulder blades are. They also have hips and a tummy. Take another look at pictures from the 1880's and 90's (when the extreme happened) those women have very small waists cause the photo is taken from the front. But if you see them in silhouette - the waist is not small at all. It is an optical illusion much like the prow of a ship looks very slim straight on - until you see the ship sideways.

Ruffs Another fashion extreme that existed primarily at the royal courts of Elizabeth I, James Its, etc. There the name of the game was "excess" for the sake of excess - the same thing happened in the 1740's at the French court of Louis XV when the panniers got so wide that women had to walk through a doorway sideways. ( I can't help but think of some of those incredibly long decorated fingernails that I see on some women today...) Most ruffs were reasonable in their dimensions. But they were so fashionable across the social spectrum that an entire "maintenance" industry of laundresses and seamstresses came into being to clean them. One way they were kept clean was by the use of very large napkins which were tucked into the neckline and draped over the front of the wearer when dining.

Newbie Richardson The Costume and Textile Specialists


Subject: NQR - the enemy of my enemy is my friend From: 

The final chapter in the saga of the two cats: Mosby and Minou When we last heard about the two estranged litter mates, almost 12 weeks ago, they were unable to even co-exist in the same room. With the diligent application of behavior modification ( lots of yelling and a few swats) , some use of "smell be gone" enzyme wipes, and plug-ins of "kitty crack" from the fancy pet store, a modicum of calm was re-established. Then almost 5 weeks ago, the cats were compelled to share their quarters with two visiting cairn terriers whose Mom went to Africa for 5 weeks. We saw the beginnings of a rapprochement very soon thereafter. Said felines are now, once again, taking their food from the same location, and can now sleep on the same bed (mine) without recreating the Battle of the Bulge! All I can think of is that there is truth to the Arab saying: "The enemy of my enemy is my friend!" Let's hope the detente lasts after the cairns go home Easter day! Thanks to all of you who counseled patience, you were right. Happy Easter to those of you who celebrate, and have a fun Purim to those for whom that is the holiday this week! Newbie



Subject: Costume and a quilted doll's petticoat From: Sally Ward

Newbie's post about extraordinary shapes reminded me of a wonderful garment seen in the V&A in London, with a skirt at least as wide as an upright piano, and only the same depth, mid 1700s I found it in their wonderful online gallery


and while I was looking stumbled upon this small quilted doll's petticoat, 1690 - 1700


Sally W


Subject: Women's History Month ( Pretty Women) From: "sue reich"

I spent 12 hours yesterday helping my 5'10"+ daughter try on wedding = gowns. Because of her height, nearly everything she tried on looked = spectacular, despite her complaints about this bulge or that bulge. The = shop owners and I rolled our eyes and pined that she has not a clue = about bulges at the never-been-pregnant age of 27. So in honor of that = event, I share with you this bit of interest.

Appleton Motor Appleton, Wisconsin March 29, 1860

"Pretty Women. ---- A pretty woman is one of the institutions of the country -- an angel in dry goods and glory. She makes sunshine, blue sky, and happiness wherever she goes. Her path is one of delicious roses, perfumery and beauty. She is a poem, writ- ten in rare curls, voluminous crinoline, choice calico, and good principles. Her words float around the ear like music birds of paradise, or the chimes of Sabbath bells. Without her, society would lose her truest attraction, the church its firmest reliance, and the young men the very best of company and comfort -ers. Her influence and generosity restrain the vicious, strengthen the weak, raise the lowly, flannel-shirt the heathen, and strength -en the faint heart. Wherever you find the virtuous woman, you also find fireside ban -quets, clean clothes, order, good living, gen -tle hearts, light, and model institutions gen -erally. She is the flower of humanity, a very Venus in dimity, and her inspiration is the breath of heaven."

For all of you donning your Easter finery tomorrow, would that we be considered in this same manner.  sue reich ------=_NextPart_000_0026_01C531FA.A045C840--


Subject: Antiques, the Magazine question From: 


I have never been able to find a database or list of the contents of = past Antiques, the Magazine. Is there such a thing? I currently have a = quick question about a 1968 issue should anyone have a second they could = spare to look, please email me privately for page number etc. quiltdatingjetlink.net

Thanks, Kim Wulfert www.antiquequiltdating.com



Subject: Passing on the Comfort Quilt Exhibit/Book From: Barb Garrett <bgarrett421comcast.net> Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2005 16:37:51 -0500 X-Message-Number: 4

More information is now available for the new traveling exhibit Passing On The Comfort. This is a collection of 18 quilts that were made in the US and Canada and sent to the Netherlands as part of postwar relief work in 1946. The exhibit will make it's official debute next Friday in Harrisburg, PA. There is also a tentative list of sites where it will be displayed in case anyone is interested. The book, Passing On The Comfort, is being published by Good Books, and becomes available the same day.

This site describes the exhibit and shows 3 quilts - http://www.saudervillage.com/Creativity/quiltfair_exhibit.asp

This site is the itinerary, and shows 2 additional quilts - http://www.mcc.org/quilts/

The quilts are part of a continuing story of quilters making quilts and comforters for those in need -- a very old tradition that continues today.

Barb in southeastern PA Where the busloads of quilters are coming next week


Subject: The Magazine Antiques: Index? From: "Bonnie Dwyer"

To all on the list who have ever wondered about indexing of magazines: a good reference librarian will be able to help you with questions about what journal is indexed where. Did you know most libraries will take this type of question over the phone? Or, by email?

The internet is a wonderful tool, but not everything is available there. Many journals and indexes are proprietary and available only by subscription. Some states and universities purchase these subscriptions and make them available online "free" to their residents and students. Every state is different, so check with your local university or state library to see if you have access.

Meanwhile, remember that your best search engine is a good librarian!


Bonnie Dwyer

District Consultant

Central Maine Library District

Maine State Library

Augusta, Maine

(Opinions are my own, but my boss would be proud.)


Subject: Women's History Month (Embroidery, Pattern Drawing, &c.)

This ad comes from

The Times London, Middlesex, England March 30, 1795

EMBROIDERY, PATTERN DRAWING, &c. MARY KNIGHT, Pattern-drawer to Her Royal High- nefs Princefs Mary, No. 155, within two doors Gutter?lane, Cheapfide, tenders her moft grateful acknowledgements to the Nobility, Centry, and Public in general, for the very great and liberal encouragement fhe has experienced; and begs leave ref- pectfully to inform them, that fhe has made a confiderable ad- dition to her former extenfive and curious Affortment of Paint- ings and Drawings of Landfcapes, Figures and Flowers, on Sat- tin and Silk: fhe has also a large affortment of new patterns for Embroidery, Tambour, &c. and fhe continues to draw on Silk, Muslin, &c. with neatnefs and dispatch, in the moft elegant and fafhionable tafte, and on the moft moderate terms. --- Every ar- ticle in the Fillagree Branch. 

sue reich --


Subject: Exhibition & Events at the New England Quilt Museum From: Anita Loscalzo <aloscalzyahoo.com> Date: Sun, 27 Mar 2005

Don't Miss These Events at The New England Quilt Museum!



APRIL 7 - JUNE 19. "Pièce de Résistance," an international juried exhibition of batik quilts will be on display at the New England Quilt Museum in conjunction with Wax Eloquent: The World Batik Conference being held in Boston in June of 2005. Batik is historically the most expressive and subtle of the resist methods used for dyeing fabrics and is a significant art form worldwide. All quilts are made from at least 50% hand made or commercial batik fabrics. A trunk show of other works by the participating artists will take place on Saturday, April 16 at 1 PM, free with admission to the gallery.

SPECIAL EVENTS Cathy Miller, Singer & Songwriter

Saturday, April 23rd at 1pm. Don't miss Music at the Museum on April 23rd when Cathy Miller, Canadian folksinger/songwriter and quilter performs with her husband John Bunge at NEQM at 1pm. Miller has toured a program of songs, stories and quilts to over 250 quilting guilds and events around North America and Australia. Drawing from her years of experience as a folksinger performing at festivals, clubs, and house concerts, her songs are historical, poignant, and humorous. Tickets are $15 for non-members, $10 members. Bring a party of 5 or more and get $1 off on each ticket. Call 978.452.4207 to make a reservation.

Anita B. Loscalzo, Curator New England Quilt Museum 18 Shattuck Street Lowell, MA 01852 -------- email: CuratorNEQuiltMuseum.org telephone: 978-452-4207 Ext. 11


Subject: Re: Costume and a quilted doll's petticoat From: aol.com Date: Sun, 27 Mar 2005 17:49:19 -0500 X-Message-Number: 5

Hm...I wonder if the doll's petticoat was Marseilles work?

Karen Evans


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