Subject: Re: qhl digest: March 24, 2010
From: Pam Weeks <>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 07:05:11 -0400
X-Message-Number: 1

RE: What I know about print.

Hi all,

I really don't know much more about this print than has been written
here, except to say that the Amoskeag Print works were in Manchester,
NH. I don't know if the brand names were used interchangeably. Greeley
ran against U. S. Grant in 1872. Amoskeag also did a campaign print
for Grant, which was much more elegant and presidential, and I believe
contained the word "Peace". My stuff is in bins in the basement of my
house, and as I am not in that house, I can't dig it out right now,

Pam Weeks in NH where we might get some more sun today! Spring is here.


Subject: Re: madder dyed fabric WHAT I KNOW ABOUT
From: "Lynne Z. Bassett" <>
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 21:53:26 -0400
X-Message-Number: 2

Dear Lynn,

I wrote an article for Blanket Statements about that exact fabric. It was
printed in Manchester, NH, at the Manchester Print Works, for the 1872
presidential campaign of Horace Greeley, a New Hampshire native. It has to
do with the book Greeley wrote the year before, called "What I Know of
Farming." For more information, see my article in the summer 2005 issue of
Blanket Statements. (Or let me know if you'd rather I sent you a copy of
the article, which I still have on my computer.)

All best,

>Last week I saw an 1870ish madder dyed stripe/print that had these words
>written over and over as part of the fabric ----- WHAT I KNOW ABOUT WHAT I
>KNOW ABOUT WHAT I KNOW ABOUT.......... Does anyone Know About this????


Subject: Quilting News - Daily calico production.
From: <>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 10:33:31 -0700
X-Message-Number: 3

Republican Compiler
Gettysburg, Pennsylvania
April 30, 1855
Page 2
It is said that sufficient calico is daily
manufactured in Rhode Island to make each
female in the State an dress.
Sue Reich
Washington Depot, Connecticut


Subject: Re: Lancaster County Quilt Opportunities Next Week
From: Barb Garrett <>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 22:26:31 -0400
X-Message-Number: 4

Oops -- shouldn't write when tired -- sorry for the previous post --
please ignore -- it was meant to be private.

but I will share that the reaction to our Poole Forge Show has been very
It's still open Friday and Saturday 10 to 5


Subject: Re: Lancaster County Quilt Opportunities Next Week
From: Barb Garrett <>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 22:24:15 -0400
X-Message-Number: 5

Hi Janet -

Thank you for your nice note. I haven't been home much this week --
tonight I'm working on reading emails before heading for CT tomorrow --
and they are predicting a bit of snow -- so I hope it doesn't amount to
anything. It's been warm here all week -- which is good for the shows.

Yes, wonderful doings here this week -- which explains why I'm tired.
Things are going along as they have been. Youngest daughter is
currently living in Chicago -- we don't know how long that will be, or
where they will go next. Granddaughter Acacia is doing well, it seems,
which is a blessing. She's adorable -- and is registered for
kindergarten for September. She still goes to speech therapy 1 day a
week, which is very needed, and has helped tremendously.

Bill and i are going to England in may -- that's probably our biggest
news. I'm excited and nervous. I must now read the BQHL information
about the V&A -- I had been ignoring it.

That's the news from here. Hard to believe it's almost Easter -- we
had bad snows in February and are hoping March stays dry.

Wishing you a nice spring,


Subject: Poole Forge Quilt Display
From: Judy Knorr <>
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2010 10:10:04 -0400
X-Message-Number: 1

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Thanks for keeping us informed about these events. On our way home from the AQS show in Lancaster yesterday, I "treated" my three friends to the Quilt Show at Poole Forge. Of course, they didn't have much choice as I was the driver and after seeing the last display was certainly not going to miss this one! We all loved it! It was so delightful to be able to take pictures of the quilts. Loved the gorgeous Bowmansville Star quilt. Had a chance to talk to the owner of the toy sewing machines that were also on display as I am also a TSM collector. We all agreed that the quilts we saw were wonderful and we truly enjoyed being able to inspect them closely so we could actually see some of the superb quilting. I'm not going to give a detailed account of the quilts I saw as Cinda does, because we had to look pretty fast in order to make it back to Long Island ahead of rush hour. Thanks to all involved for putting together a great show and thanks also for the snack!! It was so nice to see that building finished as it was still being restored when we were there the last time.
Judy Knorr


Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2010 12:59:08 -0400
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Thanks so much for all of the info about the WHAT I KNOW ABOUT print fabri c. I now remember the Blanket Statement article and need to find it and re ad it again. This was the print with the lab coat and turnips. I thought that was an odd combination on the fabric. In fact I kept thinking that surely that wasn't what I was seeing!!! I just LOVE finding out this type of info.
You have all been super writing about it.
We are having a glorious spring day.
Lynn in New Bern, NC


Subject: QN - Fixing the colors of Calico
From: <>
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 2:01:14 -0700
X-Message-Number: 1

Richland County Observer
Richland Center, Wisconsin
January 29, 1856
Page 4
An ox gall will set any color, silk,
cotton, or woolen. I have seen the colors
of calico which faded at one washing,
fixed by it.

I had no idea exactly what an ox gall really is. This is the Wikipedia definition.
It's an animal glandular product/surfactant, usually obtained from cows, that is mixed with alcohol and used as the wetting agent in marbling, engraving, lithography, and watercolor painting. It is a greenish-brown liquid mixture containing cholesterol, lecithin, taurocholic acid, and glycoholic acid.

Sue Reich
Washington Depot, Connecticut


Subject: QN - The Morality of Dress (Calico)
From: <>
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 19:42:05 -0700
X-Message-Number: 2

In the 1840s and 1850s, searches for the word "calico" rarely make reference to
its production. The textile industry of the United States was well established
and probably not as news worthy as during the 1820s and 1830s.
Throughout the 1850s, the word "calico" became synonymous with female virtue.
This news article is especially appropriate for the current Lenten season.

The Adams Sentinel
Gettysburg, Pennsylvania
November 1, 1851
Page 1
The Morality of Dress.--The Indepen-
dent says:
"The resolutions of the Miami Conference
of the Church of the United Brethren,
declaring the wearing of crinoline incom-
patible with a true Christian profession,
seems to be rigidly enforced by the authori-
ties of that denomination. At a Camp
meeting of the United Brethren Church,
recently held near West Baltimore, Mont-
gomery County. Ohio, Bishop Russell for-
bade any one with hoops on to partake of
the sacrament, affirming that they would
not be welcomed at the table of the Lord.'
If the doctrine and discipline of Bishop
Russell were to be enforced here, we fear
we should have but a few "Christians" among
the angels in calico and crinoline. It is
difficult to discover anything really irreligi-
us or immoral in hoops, per se. If the
soul or body, which are thus hooped, are
what they ought to be, why exclude the
outside covering from the table of the Lord?
To us (miserable sinners that we are!)
there is about as much unreasonableness in
the proposition, as in the suggestion that
women ought not to come to the Sacrament
at all, because the Saviour had invited none
of them to the Last Supper!

Sue Reich
Washington Depot, Connecticut


Subject: Men Tailors
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 10:52:10 EDT
X-Message-Number: 1

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I'm not very good at research and so far have hit a wall. I am trying to
research the role of men in the tailoring business during the 19th century.
I read somewhere that in England there were men clothing designers who
designed whole cloth type garments but contracted out the actual work.
Were all the small town clothing makers during the 19th century women
seamstresses or were there also men involved in the process. I would
appreciate it if someone could guide me in the direction to begin the research.

Holice Turnbow



Subject: current news items
From: Neva Hart <>
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 09:08:21 -0400
X-Message-Number: 2

Sue Reich -- history in the making!! Check out today's WALL STREET JOURNAL for the article on trucker's quilting in their cabs!! And dreaming of patterns!! "Little yellow squares with violets"! (I couldn't make this up.)

Neva Hart
AQS Appraiser in Virginia


Subject: Re: Men Tailors
From: Sally Ward <>
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 18:19:24 +0100
X-Message-Number: 3

I asked a friend, and she gave me two book recommendations for you

John Styles, The Dress of the People

'Well Suited' by Katrina Honeyman

I always thought men were at the forefront of tailoring, but both men
and women (and children) were the outworkers. Once, doing research on
something else, I found a report by members of the British Medical
Association who had travelled to Leeds to study conditions in
sweatshops. Part of their concern was disease being spread by the
dissemination of these 'off the peg' clothes constructed in unsanitary
conditions. What I read gave me sleepless nights for some time

Sally Ward


Subject: "Stitching Our Stories: Quilting Traditions from Our Past"
From: <>
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 10:26:18 -0700
X-Message-Number: 4

An historic symposium occurred in Greenwich, Connecticut this past weekend. The accompanying quilt exhibit will be on view through June.
On Saturday, at the Historical Society of the Town of Greenwich, CT, an historic symposium occurred. Women and men representing interests from the museums to independent scholars gathered to hear regional and national speakers from New England present on quilts.
Dr. Susan Schoelwer, formerly of the Connecticut Historical Society shared her research of The Patten School, a female academy that prospered in Hartford in the 19th century.
Alden O'Brien, of the DAR expanded on her research on the voluminous diary of Sylvia Lewis, extolling her quilting stories and her eventual move westward to Ohio's Western Reserve from Connecticut.
One extraordinary feature about this exhibit at Exit 4, just off I-95 in Greenwich, is the strong provenance of the quilts on display. Eighty percent of the quilts ranging in date from 1830 to 1910 are signed and dated. There are four signature quilts with nearly 500 names representing the 19th century families of Greenwich and Ridgefield, Connecticut.
Also presenting was Stephanie Hatch, a noted New England collector, appraiser and independent researcher presented her collection of signing tools, inks, stencils and other ephemera used to inscribe quilts.
Topping off the list, New Hampshire's Pam Weeks, AQS Appraiser and independent researcher explained the intricacies, dilemmas and roadblocks that occur when researching the 19th century women who signed their quilts.
Saturday was a great day but it is not over. There will be multiple presentations over these next two months and the gallery and Bush-Holley House will be open to view the quilts. So as you pass through Connecticut this spring plan to visit.

Sue Reich
Washington Depot, Connecticut


Subject: To Eboard...
From: Jean Lester <>
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 13:35:47 -0400
X-Message-Number: 5

I kind of forgot that part.



Subject: How do I post?
From: Jean Lester <>
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 13:35:03 -0400
X-Message-Number: 6

Surely I knew at one time, but totally forgot?



Subject: Re: Subscribing To Eboard...
From: Kris Driessen <>
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 10:50:56 -0700 (PDT)
X-Message-Number: 7

The details are on our website, under subscribe :-))



Subject: Tailors, dressmakers, seamstresses, mantua makers, et al
From: "Newbie Richardson" <>
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 14:36:54 -0400
X-Message-Number: 8

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Dear List,
Below find a recent post I sent to the Assoc. of Living History, farm and
Agricultural Museums following an inquerry aobut the difference between
dressmakers and tailors, etc. In view of Hollice's question, I thought some
on the list would like the "whole story" - Readers Digest version!

The sewing professions evolved during the 18th into the 20th centuries.

In the 18th c. a tailor was a person (almost always male) who had the skill
to cut out a garment that was cut to fit close to the body, thus women's
riding habits were made by tailors. A mantua maker cut out and made ( or
supervised seamstresses) women's gowns. These were draped on the body, the
fabric was manipulated w/o having the fit actually cut into it. The idea was
to be able to keep the cloth in big pieces so the gown could be taken apart
and the fabric remade into the next fashionable style.

In the 18th and early 19th century, women's gowns were binaural: they were
cut with a front and back, pleating and tucking to the body made the fit.
Men's fitted clothing (and women's riding habits) were made but shaping the
cloth by cutting it to be three dimensional, i.e.. they could hold their
shape without the human form. Anyone who has tried to display clothing from
post 1865 on two dimensional cut out foam core "paper dolls" knows how this
kind of costume display does not work for clothes from the Victorian era -
but works quite well up to about 1865.

This concept of binaural garments and 3-dimensional ones is essentially the
history of tailoring. It evolved and by the the 1860's all fitted clothing
was made three dimensionally and men's fitted clothing was made exclusively
by men - England -(Saville Row in London) dominated the men's wear business
- and still does, actually.. The most complex garment anyone will ever make
is a late 19th century man's frock coat. I know, I did one as a project in

The politics of mantua makers and tailors and milliners in the 18th century,
etc is the subject of PhD dissertations!

Milliners sold trimmings and accessories as well as hats. They could
assemble some garments as well. There is a lot of cross over here especially
mid 18th - early 19th century.

Seamstresses - especially in the 18th c and early 19th c were just that:
sewers. They could make small clothes ( breeches, shirts, stocks, etc),
children's clothes, unpick garments and turn them inside out and remake
them, etc. There was LOTS of sewing to be done.

As garments got progressively more complex to cut and make, so the
profession of "dressmaker" evolved. That is when you see the development of
the various cutting systems in the 19th century. Whether someone who
advertised as a "dressmaker" actually had the necessary skills to do the
work - is, of course, hard to know. It is no different today: none of us
knows if the gal at the corner dry cleaner is actually good at doing
alterations - we rely on word of mouth to determine whether we will take a
chance on her working on an outfit for us - not on the ad in the paper. But
if aman adavertises as a tailor - he damn well better know what he is doing!
The word Tailor carries with it expectations of competancy.

For more reading see:
Miller, Marla: Through the Needle's Eye:
Women and Work in the Revolutionary Age ( New England), Univ. Mass. Press,
Kidwell, Claudia: Cutting a Fashionable Fit
, Smithsonian ( 18th through 19th c)
IBID : Suiting Everyone
Smithsonian (IBID)
Severa, Joan, Dressed For the Photographer,
Ordinary Americans and Fashion, 1840-1900 Kent State Univ. Press, 2000
Shep, R.L - anything he has written
de Marly, Diana: Fashion for Men, Holmes and

Newbie Richardson
The Costume and Textile Specialists



Subject: RE: Men Tailors
From: "Newbie Richardson" <>
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 14:26:26 -0400
X-Message-Number: 9

Tailoring was almost never done by women - at least not in the 19th
century. It was absolutely a male dominated profession - most espcially in
Try back issues of the journal of the Costume Society of America: Dress (
goes back to the mid 1970's.) Also, R.L. Shep is probably our pre-eminent
historian on men's clothing and tailoring. He is in Mendocino California and
has a small publications house. Google him.
See also: The Cut of Men's Clothes by Nora Waugh - recently reprinted, I
Fashion For Men, by Diana de Marly
That should get you started!

Newbie Richardson

Subject: RE: Tailors, dressmakers, seamstresses, mantua makers, et al
From: "Janet O'Dell" <>
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2010 08:29:37 +1100
X-Message-Number: 10

More recommended reading on this subject:
Fabricating Women - The Seamstresses of Old Regime France 1675-1791
Duke University Press 2001
Clare Haru Crowston

Also The Cut of Women's Clothes by Nora Waugh.

I enjoy the books that show how the patterns were drafted; this topic has
brought back memories of learning pad stitching and shaping collars and
lapels and how to _press_, not _iron_ , and the wonderful things that can be
done with woolen fabric.

Janet O'Dell
Melbourne Australia


Subject: Re: Men Tailors
From: "Newbie Richardson" <>
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 18:17:13 -0400
X-Message-Number: 11

As an aside, John Styles will be the Keynote speaker at the V&A's qult
symposium this June. His book is a treasure trove of information as he
researched - among other things - proceedings of Old Bailey and other courts
for descriptions of what people were wearing - and what clothes were stolen.
It is more focused on 18th century, however,and not an easy read.

-----Original Message-----
From: Sally Ward []
Sent: Monday, March 29, 2010 1:19 PM
To: Quilt History List
Subject: [qhl] Re: Men Tailors

I asked a friend, and she gave me two book recommendations for you Holice.

John Styles, The Dress of the People

'Well Suited' by Katrina Honeyman

I always thought men were at the forefront of tailoring, but both men and
women (and children) were the outworkers. Once, doing research on something
else, I found a report by members of the British Medical Association who had
travelled to Leeds to study conditions in sweatshops. Part of their concern
was disease being spread by the dissemination of these 'off the peg' clothes
constructed in unsanitary conditions. What I read gave me sleepless nights
for some time afterwards.

Sally Ward


Subject: Men Tailors - Thanks to All
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2010 01:23:25 EDT
X-Message-Number: 1

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Thank you all who posted responses to my question. You have given me much
to research and read.
The purpose of the question is my thought to volunteer at Old Sturbridge
Village in the needlework section and I need some reasonable explanation
about why a man would be quilting in the 19th Century, especially someone from
the South in New England...




Subject: Re: Men Tailors - Thanks to All
From: Sally Ward <>
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2010 10:32:36 +0100
X-Message-Number: 2

> about why a man would be quilting in the 19th Century,

Well you needn't worry about that! In the north-east of England the
itinerant tailors were also quilt-stampers (markers) and quite
probably quilters. My own great grandfather lived in that area and is
recorded in a census as an itinerant tailor, so I've always wondered
if he did quilts. George Gardiner was a well documented professional
quilt designer in that area in the late 1800s and apprenticed the
famed Elisabeth Sanderson. And there is another male tailor/quilter
who is still remembered, sadly, by the manner of his death. The story
I paraphrase from Dorothy Osler writing in 'North Country Quilts:
Legend and Living Tradition'

'The legend of Joe the Quilter, as Joseph Hedley was known in his
neighbourhood, has passed into quilting folklore. But it was the
manner of his death - murdered by person or persons unknown - which
ensured his place in history..........Were it not for his violent end,
Joe's life would have passed, as did those of other quilters, leaving
little trace.

Born in 1750 he became a tailor by trade and subsequently turned to
quilting. He acquired a reputation for making fine quilts, working in
the Tynedale area as an itinerant quilter. He was also rumoured to be
a man of means and it seems he was killed by a thief intent on
stealing his money.'

In fact Joe was a poor man, receiving relief from the parish and gifts
of food from neighbours. His death was so shocking that it was
reported in the newspapers and memorialised in poetry.

Sally Ward


Subject: QN - Calico in the 1850s
From: <>
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2010 11:56:29 -0700
X-Message-Number: 3

The Mountain Democrat
Placerville, California
April 1, 1854
Page 2
Show us a lady's bonnet, and we
will tell you what sort of an insti-
tution she is. If it is showered
with red ribbons, cupids, bows & c.,
she is as full of love and poetry, as
a country inn of politicians and loaf-
ers. If it goes in for the simple
wrinkles, plain colors, and a couple
of modest knots, she is a perfect
jewel--sweet, sunny, mild, and as
affectionate as a freshly nursed kit-
ten. It it is 'stuck all over' with
a paradise of clover, three-story os-
trich feathers, wax hollyhocks and
juniper berries, put it square down
that the calico is a single establish-
ment, and will never see a fortieth
birthday. Bonnets are a true in-
dex of women.
Sue Reich
Washington Depot, Connecticut


Subject: Wool "Quilt"
From: Jean Lester <>
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2010 09:40:17 -0400
X-Message-Number: 1

I posted a picture of a wool felt quilt that came home from a WWII
soldier, who went overseas. The owner is a cousin and doesn't know
where he was during the war and would like to know the country of
origin for this. It is reverse appliqued using cotton(?) heavy thread
running stitch. It does have nail holes in the corners, so was
evidently used on a wall or window, at some time. Anybody recognize
the style? It is a really nice piece.



Subject: QN - Calico and young ladies of the 1850s
From: <>
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2010 7:16:31 -0700
X-Message-Number: 2

The Mountain Democrat
Placerville, California
May 20, 1854
Page 2
When you see a young lady so
very delicate that she can't make
her bed, or put a couple of plates
upon a table, and yet trots all over
town daily with the speed of a race-
horse to jumble nonsense with the
Softpates, and Snippers, and Jen-
kinses, and Duzenberries, just chalk
it down that she's a piece of calico
that you can't invest a single penny
or pulsation in. A girl who hasn't
the muscle to lift three feathers and
a pillow-case, but can tire a locomo-
tive and whole omnibus line out of
breath, is an institution that, like
prussic acid and old maids, is to be
kept clear of. Young men will
please button-up the fact in their

Sue Reich
Washington Depot, Connecticut


Subject: RE: Wool "Quilt"
From: "Kim Baird" <>
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2010 09:00:39 -0500
X-Message-Number: 3

Wow, what a beauty!
I've never seen anything like it. The designs look vaguely Turkish or other
Middle Eastern somehow.
I hope someone recognizes this.


Subject: RE: Wool "Quilt"
From: "Janet O'Dell" <>
Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 08:57:52 +1100
X-Message-Number: 4

It looks to me to be from the eastern Mediterranean, possibly Egypt. Would
it have been at one time a tent hanging?

Janet O'Dell
Melbourne Australia


Subject: Fiber Reference Image Library is now released to the public.

Good evening, QHLers - Time to warm up those microscopes - Let the fibre
sampling begin! <g>



. _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ ___________

Margaret E. Geiss-Mooney

Textile/Costume Conservator &

Collections Management Consultant

Professional Associate, AIC

The Fiber Reference Image Library is now available online.

The Fiber Reference Image Library (FRIL), a database of micrographs of
textile fibers acquired through the use of multiple microscopic techniques,
is now available at Scientists who deal with
textiles and fibers, including textile conservators, archaeologists,
forensic scientists and students will find the site to be a useful a source
of comparative images to aid in fiber identification and characterization.

The database is divided into three large categories, Plant fibers, Animal
fibers, and Man-made fibers. Each of these categories includes many
collections, organized by generic class. Micrographs are shown of single
fibers and fiber groups examined using brightfield, darkfield, polarized
light, and differential interference contrast techniques. Through these
sequences of images, differentiating characteristics of the fibers may be
seen, aiding in identification. For further information, the site includes
links to pages such as How to Use FRIL, Resources, Glossary and FAQs, and
Browse Collections as well as a Search tab that can be used to locate a
fiber generic type or a specific feature of interest.

This website was developed under a grant from the National Park Service and
the National Center for Preservation Technology and Training, with the first
phase primarily focused on construction of the website and inclusion of
images of fibers from the Comparative Plant Fiber Collection, a collection
of plant fibers typical of those used by prehistoric native Americans in
eastern North America. Since the fibers were processed from the plant stems
in different ways, the images provide evidence for the cellular structures
that remain attached to phloem fiber cells with different types of
processing and aid in fiber identification. This will be particularly useful
for those who study fiber perishables.

The site also incorporates images of animal and man-made fibers, with more
images planned for these sections. Images of fibers from selected 19th and
20th century garments from Ohio State University's Historic Costume &
Textiles Collection (HCTC) are included and these are linked to images and
information about the garments from which they came, housed under the HCTC
website (

FRIL can also be used as a teaching tool, providing information about
fibers, microscopy, and forensic techniques of fiber identification.

With continued support, FRIL will continue to grow and serve the needs of
textile researchers. For additional information, contact Kathryn Jakes,
professor, Ohio State University, College of Education and Human Ecology at

Footnote: The FRIL website was developed under a grant from the National
Park Service and the National Center for Preservation Technology and
Training. Its contents are solely the responsibility of the authors and do
not necessarily represent the official position or policies of the Nation
Park Service or the National Center for Preservation Technology and