March 26 – April 2, 2005
These restored messages come from the Quilt History List, an online forum where quilt historians, collectors, researchers, appraisers, and enthusiasts discussed antique quilts and related textiles. The archive dates from 1996 through approximately 2016 and is being restored gradually. Sign up in the form at the bottom of the page if you want to know when a new page is added. Original spelling, opinions, formatting, and inactive links may remain unchanged.
Primary topics of this QHL Digest:
- Newspaper Quilt History Excerpts — Sue Reich continues her series of historical newspaper excerpts touching on quilts and needlework, including a piece on “the Ruff.”
- Historic Furniture Terminology — A wide-ranging discussion of clothes presses, armoires, kas, shranks, and chifferobes traces how these storage-furniture terms differ by region and era. (see the article on cotton and textile terms)
- Closet Taxation History — Members dig into the old belief that closets were once taxed as rooms, along with the etymology of the word “closet.”
- Museum Exhibits and Events — Announcements include the traveling exhibit “Passing On The Comfort” and upcoming events at the New England Quilt Museum. (see the article on quilt museums)
- Dating a Redwork Album Quilt — A member seeks help identifying an advertising block found in a dated 1890 redwork album raffle quilt. (see the article on redwork and outline embroidery)
From: sue reich
Adams Sentinel Gettysburg, Pennsylvania February 5, 1849
The Ruff in Queen Elizabeth’s time. — It is stated in a modern popular work, that the most distinguished characteristic in Queen Elizabeth’s day, was the ruff. It was worn of such an enormous size that a lady in full dress was obliged to feed herself with a spoon two feet long ! These ruffs increased at such as alarm- ing rate that in 1580 sumptuary laws became necessary, to reduce them to reasonable dimensions. When these ruffs were first introduced they were of fine Holland; but early in Elizabeth’s reign, they were made of lawn and cam- bric, manufactured on the Continent, im- ported in very small quantities, and sold at an extravagant price. A writer of that day describing this lawn says, “so strange and so wonderful was this stuff, that thereupon rose a general scoff or bye-word, that shortly they would wear ruffs of a spider’s web.”
sue reich
From: “Lucinda Cawley” <lrcawley@>
Fran’s Vintage Friends met in Meyersville, MD on Monday. There are views there which haven’t changed since the Civil War (Antietam is not far away). We were, of course, looking at quilts. A beautiful Basket quilt (3rd quarter 19th cen.)came all the way from Texas for our inspection. The baskets are filled with flowers and birds (3 different species) are perched on the handles. The baskets are set without sashing and oriented toward the center. There’s a narrow half-square triangle border and wide border of appliqued birds and flowers. Fran had her sister’s wedding quilt, a Grandmothers Flower Garden made in 1939 by the ladies of the First congregational Church of Chester, NJ (see p. 204 of New Jersey Quilts by Rachel Cochran et al.). We saw lots of neat sewing items: a turquoise blue enameled thimble case in the shape of a walnut; a ribbon chatelaine possibly Shaker; a whole collection of housewives pretty much spanning the 19th century. There was an exquisite handmade lace tablecloth from Venice, c. 1900 and a carriage rug with multicolored spiral designs and a double scalloped border. I often joke about my identical-twin-separated-at-birth Suzanne Cawley, but I’m beginning to believe my own story. She and I share a real love for the weird in the world of quilts. It’s been a long time since I’ve seen anything quite as strange as Suzanne’s vintage appliqued carrot blocks (obviously affected by some horrible blight) and the quilt appliqued with 64 squat red bells. In the center was embroidered “40th anniv.” There was a great top alternating 9-Patches with Ohio Stars in many 1830-1860 fabrics and a Crosses and Losses top from New England with just about every madder brown print you could imagine with fussy cut sashes and cornerstones. Another pink and green top (PA, of course) had plus signs appliqued in the borders. We saw two sets of circa 1870 blocks (Album and Flying Geese) bought on Ebay where they were listed as 1940s. A red, white and green Pine Tree quilt (1920s) was found in a Schenectady, NY church rummage sale with a picture labeled “Forbidden Fruit Tree.” Peggy Armstrong told us about the plans for the Franklin Co., PA quilt documentation. Exciting to think that we have another book and exhibit to look forward to. Cinda on the Eastern Shore until tomorrow a.m.
From: Laura Robins-Morris <lrobins@>
I can’t imagine being able to make it through a meal without dripping something on the Ruff. Those poor laundry maids must have worked their fingers to the bone. (Or perhaps the ruff would encourage the wearer to eat very little! I could try it…)
I’m not sure I believe the 2 foot long spoons. Nevertheless, eating and staying clean would be a trick. Laura in Seattle
>Adams Sentinel >Gettysburg, Pennsylvania >February 5, 1849 > >The Ruff in Queen Elizabeth’s time. >– It is stated in a modern popular work, >that the most distinguished characteristic >in Queen Elizabeth’s day, was the ruff. >It was worn of such an enormous size >t a lady in full dress was obliged to >feed herself with a spoon two feet long ! >…… > > >
From: Jackie Joy
Another fascinating book on the production of textiles as it affected society in colonial America (and after) is The Age of Homespun : Objects and Stories in the Creation of an American Myth by Laurel Thatcher Ulrich.
Jackie Joy
From: “Newbie Richardson”
Sue is doing us all a service with her wonderful newspaper excerpts. However, The National Enquirer did not come out of a vacuum, as the last two articles prove. Tight lacing: Our poor Victorian ancestress have gotten a bad rap in the corset department. Did some women tight lace – certainly, just as some of my daughters’ friends are anorexic or bulimic for the sake of fashion. However, these were in the very small minority. Did the average single young woman tight lace – somewhat, when she was dressed for a party, but then only about 2″ smaller in the waist, and not long enough to compromise her rib cage or organs. The small minority that were of the leisure class, and had no other social outlet other than fashion, did in some cases become so dependent on the support of the whalebone corset, that they were indeed unable to be comfortable without wearing one. That was due to the lack of any physical exercise and to the fact that they had no muscle development to support their torso – sort of like developing a ektoskeleton ( like lobsters). Finally, a tightly laced corset merely redistributes flesh – both up and down. If you look carefully, there are pooches of flesh just below the armholes and along the top of the corset where the shoulder blades are. They also have hips and a tummy. Take another look at pictures from the 1880’s and 90’s (when the extreme happened) those women have very small waists cause the photo is taken from the front. But if you see them in silhouette – the waist is not small at all. It is an optical illusion much like the prow of a ship looks very slim straight on – until you see the ship sideways.
Ruffs Another fashion extreme that existed primarily at the royal courts of Elizabeth I, James Its, etc. There the name of the game was “excess” for the sake of excess – the same thing happened in the 1740’s at the French court of Louis XV when the panniers got so wide that women had to walk through a doorway sideways. ( I can’t help but think of some of those incredibly long decorated fingernails that I see on some women today…) Most ruffs were reasonable in their dimensions. But they were so fashionable across the social spectrum that an entire “maintenance” industry of laundresses and seamstresses came into being to clean them. One way they were kept clean was by the use of very large napkins which were tucked into the neckline and draped over the front of the wearer when dining.
Newbie Richardson The Costume and Textile Specialists
The final chapter in the saga of the two cats: Mosby and Minou When we last heard about the two estranged litter mates, almost 12 weeks ago, they were unable to even co-exist in the same room. With the diligent application of behavior modification ( lots of yelling and a few swats) , some use of “smell be gone” enzyme wipes, and plug-ins of “kitty crack” from the fancy pet store, a modicum of calm was re-established. Then almost 5 weeks ago, the cats were compelled to share their quarters with two visiting cairn terriers whose Mom went to Africa for 5 weeks. We saw the beginnings of a rapprochement very soon thereafter. Said felines are now, once again, taking their food from the same location, and can now sleep on the same bed (mine) without recreating the Battle of the Bulge! All I can think of is that there is truth to the Arab saying: “The enemy of my enemy is my friend!” Let’s hope the detente lasts after the cairns go home Easter day! Thanks to all of you who counseled patience, you were right. Happy Easter to those of you who celebrate, and have a fun Purim to those for whom that is the holiday this week! Newbie
From: Sally Ward
Newbie’s post about extraordinary shapes reminded me of a wonderful garment seen in the V&A in London, with a skirt at least as wide as an upright piano, and only the same depth, mid 1700s I found it in their wonderful online gallery
and while I was looking stumbled upon this small quilted doll’s petticoat, 1690 – 1700
Sally W
From: “sue reich”
I spent 12 hours yesterday helping my 5’10″+ daughter try on wedding gowns. Because of her height, nearly everything she tried on looked spectacular, despite her complaints about this bulge or that bulge. The shop owners and I rolled our eyes and pined that she has not a clue about bulges at the never-been-pregnant age of 27. So in honor of that event, I share with you this bit of interest.
Appleton Motor Appleton, Wisconsin March 29, 1860
“Pretty Women. —- A pretty woman is one of the institutions of the country — an angel in dry goods and glory. She makes sunshine, blue sky, and happiness wherever she goes. Her path is one of delicious roses, perfumery and beauty. She is a poem, writ- ten in rare curls, voluminous crinoline, choice calico, and good principles. Her words float around the ear like music birds of paradise, or the chimes of Sabbath bells. Without her, society would lose her truest attraction, the church its firmest reliance, and the young men the very best of company and comfort -ers. Her influence and generosity restrain the vicious, strengthen the weak, raise the lowly, flannel-shirt the heathen, and strength -en the faint heart. Wherever you find the virtuous woman, you also find fireside ban -quets, clean clothes, order, good living, gen -tle hearts, light, and model institutions gen -erally. She is the flower of humanity, a very Venus in dimity, and her inspiration is the breath of heaven.”
For all of you donning your Easter finery tomorrow, would that we be considered in this same manner. sue reich ——=_NextPart_000_0026_01C531FA.A045C840–
I have never been able to find a database or list of the contents of past Antiques, the Magazine. Is there such a thing? I currently have a quick question about a 1968 issue should anyone have a second they could spare to look, please email me privately for page number etc. quiltdating@
Thanks, Kim Wulfert www.antiquequiltdating.com
Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2005 16:37:51 -0500 | From: Barb Garrett <bgarrett421@>
More information is now available for the new traveling exhibit Passing On The Comfort. This is a collection of 18 quilts that were made in the US and Canada and sent to the Netherlands as part of postwar relief work in 1946. The exhibit will make it’s official debute next Friday in Harrisburg, PA. There is also a tentative list of sites where it will be displayed in case anyone is interested. The book, Passing On The Comfort, is being published by Good Books, and becomes available the same day.
This site describes the exhibit and shows 3 quilts – http://www.saudervillage.com/Creativity/quiltfair_exhibit.asp
This site is the itinerary, and shows 2 additional quilts – http://www.mcc.org/quilts/
The quilts are part of a continuing story of quilters making quilts and comforters for those in need — a very old tradition that continues today.
Barb in southeastern PA Where the busloads of quilters are coming next week
From: “Bonnie Dwyer”
To all on the list who have ever wondered about indexing of magazines: a good reference librarian will be able to help you with questions about what journal is indexed where. Did you know most libraries will take this type of question over the phone? Or, by email?
The internet is a wonderful tool, but not everything is available there. Many journals and indexes are proprietary and available only by subscription. Some states and universities purchase these subscriptions and make them available online “free” to their residents and students. Every state is different, so check with your local university or state library to see if you have access.
Meanwhile, remember that your best search engine is a good librarian!
Bonnie Dwyer
District Consultant
Central Maine Library District
Maine State Library
Augusta, Maine
(Opinions are my own, but my boss would be proud.)
This ad comes from
The Times London, Middlesex, England March 30, 1795
EMBROIDERY, PATTERN DRAWING, &c. MARY KNIGHT, Pattern-drawer to Her Royal High- nefs Princefs Mary, No. 155, within two doors Gutter?lane, Cheapfide, tenders her moft grateful acknowledgements to the Nobility, Centry, and Public in general, for the very great and liberal encouragement fhe has experienced; and begs leave ref- pectfully to inform them, that fhe has made a confiderable ad- dition to her former extenfive and curious Affortment of Paint- ings and Drawings of Landfcapes, Figures and Flowers, on Sat- tin and Silk: fhe has also a large affortment of new patterns for Embroidery, Tambour, &c. and fhe continues to draw on Silk, Muslin, &c. with neatnefs and dispatch, in the moft elegant and fafhionable tafte, and on the moft moderate terms. — Every ar- ticle in the Fillagree Branch.
sue reich —
Date: Sun, 27 Mar 2005 | From: Anita Loscalzo <aloscalz@>
Don’t Miss These Events at The New England Quilt Museum!
CURRENT EXHIBITION
PIÈCE DE RÉSISTANCE: BATIK QUILTS
APRIL 7 – JUNE 19. “Pièce de Résistance,” an international juried exhibition of batik quilts will be on display at the New England Quilt Museum in conjunction with Wax Eloquent: The World Batik Conference being held in Boston in June of 2005. Batik is historically the most expressive and subtle of the resist methods used for dyeing fabrics and is a significant art form worldwide. All quilts are made from at least 50% hand made or commercial batik fabrics. A trunk show of other works by the participating artists will take place on Saturday, April 16 at 1 PM, free with admission to the gallery.
SPECIAL EVENTS Cathy Miller, Singer & Songwriter
Saturday, April 23rd at 1pm. Don’t miss Music at the Museum on April 23rd when Cathy Miller, Canadian folksinger/songwriter and quilter performs with her husband John Bunge at NEQM at 1pm. Miller has toured a program of songs, stories and quilts to over 250 quilting guilds and events around North America and Australia. Drawing from her years of experience as a folksinger performing at festivals, clubs, and house concerts, her songs are historical, poignant, and humorous. Tickets are $15 for non-members, $10 members. Bring a party of 5 or more and get $1 off on each ticket. Call 978.452.4207 to make a reservation.
Anita B. Loscalzo, Curator New England Quilt Museum 18 Shattuck Street Lowell, MA 01852 ——– email: CuratorNEQuiltMuseum.org telephone: 978-452-4207 Ext. 11
Date: Sun, 27 Mar 2005 17:49:19 -0500 | From: Karen Evans
Hm…I wonder if the doll’s petticoat was Marseilles work?
Karen Evans
From: Sally Ward
When i posted the url for the petticoat I used the ‘tiny url’ conversion because the original was so long it would need cut and paste. But when I went to look again this morning after Karen’s comment, it was somehow giving me a different page.
So if you’re not getting it, here is the page in full:
http://images.vam.ac.uk/ixbin/ go here or here
http://images.vam.ac.uk/ixbin/ and search for ‘doll’s petticoat’.
Sally W
From: “sue reich”
Burlington Hawk Eye Burlington, Iowa February 13, 1878
Woman’s Work. Fanny B. Ward.
“Work ! work ! work ! while the cock is crowing aloof, And work ! work ! work ! Till the stars shine through the roof ! It is oh, to be a slave Along with the barbarous Turk, Where woman has never a soul to save, If this is Christian work.” ——–
A Farmer’s Wife. Not alone to the attic seamstress, whom Hood has so graphically described, are these words applicable, but to woman all over the land, and especially to my sisterhood of the rural districts whose “lives are cast” – neither on the heights of influence nor in the depths of poverty, but in the beaten ruts of mediocrity peculiar to farmer’s lives. It is not at the necessary work – the cooking, washing, baking, and cleaning, which must all be accomplished with the help of perhaps one or two pairs of inefficient hands, in order to secure home comfort – that I draw my bow and shoot my arrow at a venture, but to that unnecessary and extravagantly in- dulged ruffling, tucking, braiding, and stitching with which so many women employ their energies till their hands become mental deserts with scarce an oasis wherein a single intellectual idea could “shoot.” Vacation weeks spent by the many mothers in man- ufacturing and remodeling elaborate costumes for the children, and as I behold the be- tucked and beruffled sprites gingerly picking their way back to school, I recall with grati- fication the plain frocks and sensible aprons of my own childhood, when play was a pleasure and not a perilous undertaking. But the mother! surely these six hours of quiet, afforded by the absence of the “olive branches” will allow her some time for the physical rest and mental culture which, dur- ing the busy season she denied herself. Surely her husband will not have the usual opportunity of monopolizing all the books and papers.
Just look at her, as, with paper pattern and scissors, snipping from bright-colored prints and snowy muslins inch bits – the stitch ! stitch ? stitch ! till gradually the scraps take form, and “after many days” she will display to our wondering gaze a perfect whole in the form a patchwork quilt; or by tearing up old clothes into infinitesimal strips and sewing them together again, after infinite labor, and dust and pains, a rag-carpet is produced, or rugs and mats are manufac- tured, or shawls are knitted, or tidies and toilet sets crocheted, or some other feminine nonsense – all well enough, perhaps, in their way if one has abundance of time, but scarce- ly worth to monopolize the few spare mo- ments of busy lives.
You speak of books and magazines to one of those jaded and over-worked creatures, and she says, “Oh, yes: husband reads every spare minute, but I never can find the time.” Mention the last lyceum or lecture, and she says, “Yes, John enjoyed it; he wanted me to go, but a woman with a family has so many cares, you know,” and then she cites that old rhyme which her own perverseness makes true: “A man’s work is from sun to sun, But a woman’s work is never done.” By and by, she who once occupied a good position in society, and was fully her hus- band’s intellectual equal, if not his superior at marriage, by spending every spare minute at these profitable trifles to the exclusion of all literary work, daily slips farther and farther backward toward the ultimate result of helpless mental dwarfage. The mental as well as the physical powers require constant aliment, without which growth is impossible. This is the reason why, as time goes on, so many husbands gradually grow away from their wives.
from sue reich
From: “sue reich”
Dear Newbie and all who have knowledge of the proper cleaning of textiles. As you may have read last week, I have been wedding dress shopping with my youngest daughter. On Saturday, she wanted to see my own wedding dress, a 1970 Priscilla of Boston, in the empire style, with yards of Alencon lace, ivory on white organza. The veil is elbow length, tulle with a donut type cap decorated with tufts of Alencon lace and tulle. She plans to wear the veil, so that I will have to find a good place to have it cleaned. My dress was stored in its purchase box (not good) and taped shut. I had the common sense at 22 years of age to wrap it in a clean sheet. Remarkably, it’s in great condition. There is only one, quarter-size stain on the under skirt at the bottom of the train. There are no other visible stains or discolorations of the outside of the dress. It is a size ten and tiny. Don’t tell me that people are not getting bigger. Neither of my daughters, born of my flesh, who both wear size ten, could even begin to think about wearing this dress. This is my question. Should I rewrap it and place it in an acid free box or should I consider having it cleaned at this late date? sue reich ——=_
From: “Lynne
Dear Friends,
First, I want to thank this list for providing me with resources at hand when I got a call today from a local teacher who wanted me to come in and talk to her fourth graders about quilts and the Underground Railroad. I don’t think she was expecting the response I gave her, but fortunately she was very open-minded and eager for the list of HIPV myth-busting websites that I sent to her, culled from discussions on this list.
Second, remember the fabulous wool quilt with the embroidered soldiers on horseback and profile portraits of the family that sold for almost $100,000 in Maine this winter? I found out who bought it–the Boston Museum of Fine Arts. I’m delighted that it’s in my neighborhood and I can go visit it whenever I want. Hooray!
Third, please pardon my pride in announcing that I have won the Costume Society of America’s 2005 Richard Martin Award for Excellence in Costume Exhibition! This is for the exhibit I guest curated at the Mark Twain House & Museum, “Modesty Died When Clothes Were Born: Costume in the Life and Literature of Mark Twain”! I am SO thrilled! I just can’t keep the news to myself.
Thanks again to this List for the UGRR resources!
Best, Lynne
Date: Mon, 2 | From: KareQuilt@
<img align=”left” alt=”click on the thumbnail” border=”2″ height=”62″ src=”images/QuiltTop1_small.jpg” width=”100″/> you think this is a Kit Quilt top?
eBay Item #7310821877
Karen in the San Juans
From: Patricia L
A question has come up, between friends. One contends that she has heard that closets were considered in early taxation and that the more of them one had in the house, the more taxes had to be paid. Another person, who worked in an assessor’s office in Massachusetts, has examined tax records that go back to the 1700s and has never come across this situation. However, that is just one community.
When we were at Old Sturbridge Village last fall, I was paying more attention to the quilts than anything else and really did not look for closets, nor am I aware of seeing any in all of the 1790-1840 homes we toured.
I am just thinking that perhaps people had only two sets of clothes, one for Sunday best, as I have heard (but don’t know the time frame on this). Maybe they did not need dedicated closets. I suppose this would vary with the different geographical locations in the country. I am thinking of New England, specifically, when I ask the question. Can anyone shed any light on this closet situation? Thanks.
Pat Cummings (who currently has an article about Old Sturbridge Village and its quilts in the May 2005 issue of The Quilter magazine)
From: “Marcia
As long as we are on this non-related topic: can anyone tell me about clothes presses? I understand that they were used quite often. Was that instead of closets? Marcia
From: “
> When we were at Old Sturbridge Village last fall, I was paying more > attention to the quilts than anything else and really did not look for > closets, nor am I aware of seeing any in all of the 1790-1840 homes we > toured.
As the former curator of textiles and fine arts at OSV, I can tell you that there aren’t any clothes closets in the Village houses. Closets weren’t commonly built into houses until about the mid-19th century and later. These early closets were very shallow–not deep enough to accomodate a modern hanger. Clothes were hung on hooks. For instance, if you look inside the waistband of a mid-19th century dress, you’ll see that there’s often a couple of tape loops. The skirt was turned inside out and hung by those loops for storage, while the bodice was kept in a drawer. Clothes presses also have hooks for hanging clothes, along with shelves for folded storage. Most clothes were kept in chests of drawers, blanket chests, and band boxes (named for the form of neckwear called “bands” in the 17th century).
> I am just thinking that perhaps people had only two sets of clothes, one > for Sunday best, as I have heard (but don’t know the time frame on this). > Maybe they did not need dedicated closets. I suppose this would vary with > the different geographical locations in the country. I am thinking of New > England, specifically, when I ask the question. Can anyone shed any light > on this closet situation? Thanks.
How many clothes you had depended on what your economic status was. Poor people in the 18th and early 19th century sometimes did have only two changes of clothes, but most people had more, and sometimes much more. I’ve done quite a bit of probate research from the 17th to the mid-19th century specifically looking for clothes, and even in the earliest periods, if you were wealthy, you tended to have a lot of clothes. There’s a particular inventory from Deerfield, Mass., of a young woman–the minister’s daughter–who died about 1720, and she had more clothes than I do! Clothes were a form of investment. There were no IRAs in that period, but if you needed money, you could readily sell your clothes, your table linens, your quilt….
Hope this helps!
Best, Lynne
From: “J. G. Row” <JudyGrow@>
Marcia, Here is a very fine example of a clothes press from c. 1770. http://www.mallettantiques.com/items/FQ045.htm
And here is another one, a Baker reproduction at $25,000! You might as well find an antique for that kind of money. http://www.kohlerinteriors.com/baker/1_1_5_0_coll_The form is what virtually every clothes press I’ve seen has –cupboard doors above with drawers or sliding shelves with a half-height front inside, and a base of all drawers. Also called a linen press.
I don’t think it was a particulary popular form with American cabinetmakers, but was imported from England by the very wealthy. I really can’t remember ever seeing one with an American attribution.
We owned one over 35 years ago, when such things were affordable, but my DH couldn’t stand living with English furniture when there was so much American to be bought!
Newbie? Lynne? Do you know of 18th/19th century American cabinetmaker-made clothes/linen presses?
I’ve seen many contemporary ones being made to store TV sets, you’ll pardon my use of the term — “Hidden in Plain View.”
Judy, aka the Ringoes Kid judygrow@
From: Lynn and Debbie Cupp <Cupp5@>
This may be the family in the 1880 census, Warsaw, Kosciusko, Indiana.
Warsaw, Kosciusko, Indiana Thomas C. Stuart male age 40 born Ohio, clerk in elevator, parents born Ohio. Sarepta Stuart wife age 35 born Ohio, keeping house, parents born NY Minnie M. Stuart, daughter, 14, born Indiana Lillie B. Stuart, daughter, 11, born Indiana Charles F. Stuart, son, 8, born Indiana unnamed Stuart, age 5 mos, born Indiana
Debbie Cupp Virginia Beach, VA
>
From: “Lynne Z. Bassett”
> I don’t think it was a particulary popular form with American > cabinetmakers, but was imported from England by the very wealthy. I > really can’t remember ever seeing one with an American attribution. > Newbie? Lynne? Do you know of 18th/19th century American > cabinetmaker-made clothes/linen presses?
Just skimming through one of my basic furniture reference books, “Three Centuries of American Furniture,” I see a number of American-made clothespresses (also called “wardrobes”). The Pennyslvania Germans, in particular, are known for the “kas,” which is a clothespress/wardrobe. It’s definitely not a furniture item as common as a blanket chest or tall chest of drawers, though.
Best, Lynne
From: Joan Kiplinger <jkip@>
> Lynne and all — wouldn’t armoires be a fancier version of > presses and wardrobes and also imported here by the upper class?? I > have American Furniture 1620 to the present [1981] by Faribanks and > Bates — is that one of the books you also might have checked?? If not, > I will look through my book. >
Sure, armoire is another name for the form. (Amazingly, I seem not to have that book, though, so please do confirm.) I was also thinking about how in _To Kill a Mockingbird_, Mayella gets Tom Robinson to come into the yard by asking him to “bust up” an old “chiffarobe,” which is another name for a wardrobe, I believe.
Lynne
From: nomad1@
Hi Lynne, Congrats on your fabulous win. I particularly love the title of your exhibition, ” …Modesty Died When Clothes Were Born: …….” Your wicked sense of humour is evident here and when one ruminates on these words you are absolutely spot on! Well done on your handling of the HIPV myth as well. Over here in Australia HIPV is running amok as well. I have had school children as well as adults comment on it, as soon as they know I have an antique quilt fetish! As soon as the code is mentioned my heart sinks into my tummy and I literally fight with me, myself and I to keep a straight face and explain in a calm manner. Still many choose to believe what they wish to believe. I am a firm believer of oral tradition as well and many think when one disagrees with HIPV, that one is knocking the latter. I am most certainly not! Sigh! Rolled eyes! Yes indeed, our QHL kin are such an awesome bunch, scattered all over the world. I can never thank Kris enough! Hey Kris, surely by now you must have QHL Grandbabies??? You know….kids of original QHL’ers? My Anika is 9 going on 90 and she knows of QHL and God willing she will become one as soon as she catches the bug! Thanks for sharing your good news Lynne and Congrats again. Huge smiles, Hiranya Loder from Sydney, Australia : >
From: “Lynne Z. Bassett”
Thank you to everyone who has written to me privately and on the List, to congratulate me on the Costume Society of America award! Your good wishes mean a great deal to me. Hiranya, I wish I could take credit for the phrase “Modesty died when clothes were born,” but that’s Mark Twain talking. (It’s from his autobiography.) I greatly enjoyed his “wicked sense of humor” throughout the project–especially “Writing fashion articles, like wet nursing, can only be done properly by women.”
Best, Lynne
From: Joan Kiplinger <jkip@>
I just checked this book. There are some lovely examples of PG shranks [wardrobes] from 1760-80 at the William Penn Memorial Museum in Harrisburg and at the Winterthur; early 19thC clothespress from the Piedmont region; 2 armoires — one made in Vincennes IN in 1804 by a French family and one imported from France by a French family living in St. Louis MO in 1780; and 3 kas [press from Low Countries]] from NY, NJ and eastern VA 1650-1740. Book states that English habits were about the same as in the colonies during the 17thC. Inventories of American colonists who died before 1720 often contain references to presses, sometimes described “as a press to hang clothes in.”
From: “Lynne Z. Bassett” <lzbassett@>
Oops, I mixed up the ethnic backgrounds of the “kas” and the “shrank.” Thanks for setting me straight, Joan! Great information–I’ll have to get that book.
Best, Lynne
From: Joan Kiplinger <jkip@>
Lynne — Per your previous remark about chiffarobes and chiffoniers to be really fancy French, I had one as a toddler. It was so much fun to crawl in and close the door, then scream like crazy because I couldn’t get out. Life was not easy for my mother. I had the loan of one when my boys were toddlers and history repeated itself. 🙁 Re book — there are some nice Wallace Nutting pieces featured, if you are a fan of his work. The author is or was curator of American Fine Arts at the Boston Museum of Fine Arts.
From: “Jan Drechsler” <quiltdoc@>
Lynne,
Good for you; both for telling us about your award and for your achievement in being recognized by such an important group.
I feel better already about the two new blouse I bought, knowing that ‘clothes are an investment!’
Jan
From: “sue reich”
After reading this account of female beauty across the world, you will certainly agree that “beauty is in the eyes of the beholder.” !!!! sue reich
Adams Centinel Gettysburg, Pennsylvania January 14, 1824
Female Beauty and Ornament —-
The ladies in Japan gild their teeth; and those of the Indies paint them red. The pearl of teeth must be dyed black to be beautiful in Guzerat. In Green- land the ladies color their faces with blue and yellow. —- However fresh the complexion of a Muscovite may be, she would not think herself very ugly if she was not plastered over with paint.
The Chinese must have their feet as diminutive as those of the she goat’s, and to render then thus, their youth is passed in tortures. In ancient Per- sia an aquiline nurse was always thought worthy of the crown: and if there was any competition between two princes, the people generally went by the crite- rion of Majesty. In some countries the mothers break the noses of their children; and others press the head between two boards that it may be- come square. The modern Persians have a strong aversion to red hair, the Turks on the contrary warm admirers of it.
In China, small round eyes are liked, and the girls as continually plucking their eyebrows, that they may be thin and long. The Turkish women dip a gold brush to the tincture of a black drug; which they pass over their eye brows; it is too visible by day, but looks shining by night; they tinge their nails with a rose colour. An Af- rican beauty must have small eyes, thin lips, a large flat nose, and skin beau- tiful black. The Emperor of Mono motapy would not change his amiable negress for the most brilliant Europe- an beauty. An ornament for the nose appears to us perfectly unnecessary. The Peruvians, however, think other- wise; and they hang a weighty ring, the thickness of which is proportioned by the rank of their husbands.—-
The custom of boring it as our ladies do their ears, is very common in several nations. Through the perforation are hung various materials — gold, stones, a single and sometimes a great num- of gold rings.
From: Joan Kiplinger <jkip@> bit
My thanx to those who helped with dating kimono patterns and contributing kimono quilts for my column. If movies, loose robes and women’s independence capture your fancy, see below.
Joan It’s a Wrap www.fabrics.net/joan.asp
From: Xenia Cord <xenia@>
I had not heard of taxing closets, but the question reminded me of another tax – on windows. I had always thought that the phrase “to know him by his lights” referred to judging a person’s wealth by the number of windows in his house. Of course when I went looking, I couldn’t find a direct reference.
However…I did lift this quote from an unidentified university website. It refers to a direct tax imposed on Americans just after the Revolution. The concept of a window tax was not new; England had had such since the 1600s, and it was a logical (if disliked) carry-over to the colonies and to the new republic.
<Pennsylvania’s Direct Tax records are in the National Archives today. Other Direct Tax records are in private or state historical collections, or, as is the case of the southeastern states, have disappeared. For the Direct Tax, a property owner was required to list name and occupation and describe his or her principal dwelling in terms of construction materials, square footage, the number of stories, Herman said. Windows also were recorded so that the tax was informally known as the “window tax.” The tax also documented some tenant-occupied properties. Schedule A applied to houses worth more than $100; schedule B to those less than $100.>
Doesn’t have much to do with quilts, does it <g>?
Xenia
Pat, we’ve had this discussion on the museum listserve a few times — and I think it was concluded that this is an urban myth that falls under the beds were shorter in “the old days” category…there’s a few others too, but I can’t remember at them moment… Candace Perry
The house here in Texas where I volunteer as a docent includes as part of our speech bit that “there are no closets in this house because they were taxed on the number of rooms they had and closets were considered rooms”. I also heard this same statement while doing a home tour in New Orleans. Could this room taxation be just a southern thing?
Peg in North Texas
It’s actually not that “closets” were taxed, but according to information form Colonial Williamsburg and others, it was “rooms” that were taxed. Apparently, closets were considered to be rooms.
pines
From: “quiltstuff”
This closet taxation thing got me curious.. I know that people did not need as much closet space as they had fewer clothes and possessions. but have often been interested in descriptions of such in books like the Little House series. I remember the pantry that Laura’s husband made for her as opposed to the simple ‘closets’ she described in her attic bedroom. Anyway, found this references but nothing else.. so it could be an urban myth. The third floor bedroom is unique among the rooms in the home: it features the only closet in the house. Considered rooms and taxed as such by the British crown, closets were not often built during the colonial era. After the American Revolution, the “closet tax” was abolished, allowing homeowners to construct closets without additional taxation. http://www.nps.gov/rocr/olst/history.htm
This is a heart-wrenching account of the state of life for many southern women post Civil War. sue reich
The Petersburg Index Petersburg, Virginia March 24, 1870
(Communicated_ Female Farmers. Female rights, female privileges, female duties, are discussed by the press, on the rostrum, in the street, at home and abroad, while the “Female Farmers” of the South elicit not a word of comment. To till the soil was a burden formerly laid upon man and beast, but our late revolution has turned matters upside down, and we are now accustomed to see new and wonderful things, in old familiar places. We see our once proud aristocrat begging crumbs from his poor neighbor’s table; we see Miss “Flora McFlimsey” Shoddy entering the concert with a gay retinue of beaux and attendants, while “Miss Kilmansegg,” our former heiress, pale and dejected, is pressed to the wall; and we see, too, alas ! woman, instead of man, in the field and at the ploughshare.
Yes ! the only legacies bequeathed to the South by the dying Con- federacy, were scores of women — young and beautiful; leagues of land, rich and fertile; and the clothes of the old man and the young lad who were sacrificed in this unequal strife. And these fair knights of the soil don portions of these sacred gar- ments, boots, coat and hat; and if old ‘Cuffy’ would return from his flight, taken when freedom was proclaimed, he would think it was the ghost of “my old massa or my young gem’man,” whom he saw in the field, at the plough, and driving as a gay charioteer.
Many a light head, which was filled only with thoughts of beaux and pleasure before the war, is now vexed with the mysteries of the soil; hands then clasped in idleness, now guide the stubborn ox; feet which then revealed in the fairy dance, now drag over the rugged furrow. This is a great era in the annals of agriculture, and I predict its fair disciples will give the world some startling experiments. Of course, failures as well as successes will mark their initiation. They may plant corn in winter, wheat in summer.
But then they have espoused this ancient science and intend to sound its very bottom, and know for themselves the secret of its wonderful developments. And who knows but the pursuit of agriculture may prove the response to that piercing cry which has reached us, of those unhappy women who, finding that the duties of the fireside are not adequate to their capacious wants and vast sympathies, would ?dain enter the professional arena along with man! It is true, this vocation will not throw them be- side the lords of creation, nor will their performances be in public, but they will have the consolation of knowing they are doing man’s work, — which necessi- ty has imposed upon many of the fair women of the South. Yes, the inexorable hand of fate, has driven many of our ladies to the plough, and I fear they will do such mischief in the grand field of agriculture that there will not be charity houses and benevolent institutions sufficient to appease the clamorous cry for bread, which will ring from shore to shore.
But if my fears should prove fallacious, and groaning granaries instead should crown their gentle labors, then farewell ye dreams of ambi- tious women; farewell to gay rostrums and loud plaudits, which you will have to ex- change for the surtout and hat; and far removed from the haunts of man, pur sue alone your onerous labors, solaced only by the thought that you are following in the footsteps once pursued by man……
From: “Newbie Richardson”
We may be dealing with confusion of the meaning of the term. In the 18th century and earlier a ‘closet’ was in fact a small room – what we might call an office today. (Some times called a cabinet in the 17th century) I am not sure when the term came to mean “storage place”. Judy, what does the OED say? I do know that Janea Whitacer, who interprets a mantua maker at Colonial Williamsburg, has been working on the storage of clothing in the 18th c. She has had a trunk built to the specifications found in one of the inventories and has found that it has lots of room for all the clothes mentioned in the inventory. It is in fact, a very successful and efficient storage unit. That is now what she packs when she does “road shows” on 18th c wardrobes ( the clothing, not the container). When my father’s ancestoral home in northern New Hampshire (Bath, 50 miles north of Hanover) built in 1799 was modernized in the 1930’s, my grandmother took two very small rooms (closets?) which supposedly had contained trunks for clothing storage, and combined them to create a modern bathroom on the second floor. The term “powder room” derives from the room used in the 18th century to powder hair – a small enclosed space. We also need to see when the first clothes hanger was developed – and used. Newbie in Northern VA where we finally have flowers ( very late for us this year)
Still interested in this discussion…I talked to my colleague here at the museum — she’s a former interpreter/ranger for Independence Hall and other sites in the Philly area…and she said that the closet debate was a big thing in the 80s. Apparently curators and historians differed on the point — the curators saying there was no such thing as a “closet tax.” (and since I’m a curator, I suppose that’s wherein the problem lies). If there was a closet tax, it apparently would have been confined to urban areas (hence the idea of it being in Philly, D.C. and Williamsburg). Not so sure about the idea of a “room tax.” In Philly, at least, this may be researchable in terms of Franklin and firemarks. I think this debate continues even within the confines of the NPS, so what may be set forth as fact at one site is not at another. Newbie…I’m wondering if one of the little rooms in your grandmother’s house was a “borning room” — my aunt lives in a late 18th early 19th cent. house in Westport CT, and she has one of these odd little spaces in her house. Oh,I dunno. Some days you really have to wonder if you know anything… Candace Perry Schwenkfelder Library & Heritage Ctr.
I think that Cold Mountain (book, I haven’t seen the movie) gives a real sense of how hard life was for some women in the South during and after the Civil War. Reading Sue’s wonderful finds from the old newspapers sometimes causes adjectival overload. (G) Cinda on the Eastern Shore
From: “Teddy Pruett”
Chifferobe – definitely Southern, but not nearly so much as “chester drawers.” Gotta love our pronunciation. Or lack thereof. Teddy Pruett
From: “Newbie Richardson”
Candace, Yes, the room off of the kitchen was the “bourning room”. ( we still have the full cooking hearth with beehive oven (the cat LOVES to hide in there) It is my understanding that is the space used for invalids and having babies as it was warm and close to hot water, etc. The old kitchen is now used as the dining room, as a “summer” kitchen was added on in the late 19th century. The bourning room is now either the bar ( in summer) or a small efficiency kitchen in winter. It gets unbelievably cold in that valley. As a kid I used to amuse myself by going out into the el (space next to the house where the carriges and sled were housed) and watched as my spit froze before it hit the ground. Great fun when you are 7 or 8! This house was never a farm. My great however many was a merchant and an inn keeper. The house next door was the inn. The town of Bath, NH was the law center for Northern New England before the Civil War. It was a very populous and properous area. Part of the Connecticut Valley area. Lots of small factories until the 1960’s. Now it has the same economy as Appalachia – although things are better than they used to be. The Appalchian Ridge extends into Northern New England – we have hollers, too – along with all the other economic challenges that the Southern Appalachian area faces. Newbie Richardson
From: Gail Ingram <gingram@>
In early 1600’s in England, the word “closet” still meant room. 1611 In King James Version of Bible, Jesus instructs his followers, ‘when thou prayest, get thee into thy closet,” referring to the Pharisees who “think that they may be heard for their much speaking” on the streets, before others. The idea was to get inside the house, out of view.
I noted on USADEEPSOUTH page that chifforobe is claimed to be southern word for wardrobe, the “chif” coming from french “rag”. “Ward,” if I recall means/meant “to protect” and thus would be a place with robes were protected.
In my own experience in central Louisiana, chiffarobes were newfangled, generally not so beautiful and often marketed by Sears. By definition they consist of drawers and hanging areas. The terms “wardrobe,” “press,” and “armoire” were used interchangeably and generally had no drawers, certainly not exposed to view. They were numerous, for most of the older houses (even early 1900’s) had no closets. Many older houses had been dogtrot log cabins originally and grew out and up and gotten gussied up with shingles painted white.
When the rage for Golden Oak was coming back, my mother was always saying, “Don’t talk to me about those old chifforobes. I don’t want any of that stuff in my house. I’ll take an armoire, but not a chifforobe.” I think they had association with Depression, poverty, or just general ugliness.
From: Xenia Cord
Shorter OED – Closet: old French – dim. of ‘clos’, from the Latin ‘closum’. 1. a room for retirement, a private room, in later use always a small room. 2. The private apartment of a monarch or potentate. 3. A cabinet 1601; a side room or recess for storing utensils. provisions etc. 4. Short for ‘Water-closet’ 1662.
Xenia
From: “Andi” <andi0613@>
I have come across an ad block in a dated 1890 redwork album raffle quilt for a drug store that included the word “Portmoniaos” or words “Port Moniaos” in a block section that also mentions purses, desks and lamps (“at lowest prices”). Had the word been “portmanteau,” I would know what it meant. I am certain of the letters/spelling. Is anyone familiar with this term/s?
Andi in Keota, Iowa
From: Joan Kiplinger <jkip@>
Andi — it looks very Greek or Portuguese. I found nothing on the internet; maybe an atlas could help??
