April 10 – 22, 2003
These restored messages come from the Quilt History List, an online forum where quilt historians, collectors, researchers, appraisers, and enthusiasts discussed antique quilts and related textiles. The archive dates from 1996 through approximately 2016 and is being restored gradually. Sign up in the form at the bottom of the page if you want to know when a new page is added. Original spelling, opinions, formatting, and inactive links may remain unchanged.
Primary topics of this QHL Digest:
- Identifying a 19th-Century “Union” Fabric — A fabric printed with the word “Union” inside a 13-star oval turns up on two separate quilts, prompting members to compare notes.
- Dating “Flock” Stuffing in Early Quilts — The period term “flock” or “flockes,” for loose cotton stuffing, is traced through Averil Colby’s writing. (see the article on dating quilts)
- Sandi Fox’s “Quilts: California Bound, California Made” — Members praise this limited-edition book on the history of California quiltmaking from 1840–1940.
- Mid-19th-Century Three-Dimensional Wool Handwork — A member seeks resources on a dimensional wool needlework technique for a research project.
- Researching Southern Fairs and Expositions, Continued — The Southern fairs research thread picks back up with a specific book recommendation, *Bazaars and Fair Ladies*.
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 14:25:48 +0100 | From: “Sally Ward”
Can anyone answer this for a friend of mine in Yorkshire?
Sally W
> Anyone out there have any idea what a ‘flock’ quilt might have been? Before > you all go rushing of to the dictionary we are talking mid 17th century. It > is a reference in an inventory of one of the first settlers to Baltimore.
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 15:42:00 EDT | From: Kittencat3@
“Flock” or “flockes” referred to the loose cotton stuffing of an early quilt, at least according to Averil Colby. I’d assume that a “flock” quilt would be stuffed with loose cotton. It might also be made of cotton, since most bed quilts of that time period were luxury items of silk.
Hope this helps….
Lisa Evans
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 21:09:15 -0400 | From: “Cinda Cawley” <lrcawley@>
Does anybody know anything about a 19th century fabric with the word “Union” inside an oval of 13 stars? The background is a purply brown with random darker brown brick-shapes I violated my “I’m not buying anything until after my daughter’s wedding” pledge yesterday after a friend told me that she had seen “my kind of quilt” at an antique shop. I stuck to my resolve, even though the quilt has an incredible variety of 1860-80 fabrics, until I saw the piece described above. I think what I have is a charm quilt. John and I spent a lot of time last night trying to find duplicates among the approximately 1,850 triangles that make up the quilt (no borders). We didn’t find any matches. The pieces are set sort of alternating dark and light, but essentially without any plan. The quilt has corners for a poster bed. There are lots of madder browns and double pinks as well as just about anything else you could think of. The shop where I bought it is a consignment shop for the local historical society. I’m going to call the lady who registers things as they come in to see if she can put me in touch with the consignor. This quilt has a real New England look. The Eastern Shore is a place where many people are “come heres,” as the natives call us. I’d love to find out where this quilt came from. Cinda on the Eastern Shore
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 13:38:19 -0400 | From: “Sondra Biacchi” <quilt@>
QUILTS: CALIFORNIA BOUND, CALIFORNIA MADE 1840-1940 by Sandi Fox …Superb book and a limited edition. I can’t put this book down! The richly diverse legacy of California’s quilts is beautifully chronicled in words and images in this extraordinary collection spanning a century of quiltmaking. In transcribing the inscriptions found on the quilts and bedcovers, in each instance, grammar, punctuation, and spelling are presented as they appear. This is the story of California’s quilts, from those California bound–carried on the backs of mules and horses, in covered wagons, by ship, and when the tracks of the transcontinental railroad stretched to the Pacific, by train –and most surprisingly–pulled from the sea. Letters, diaries, and historical records provide authentic accounts of the social, political, and cultural contexts in which California’s quilts were brought west and worked there. And throughout is the recognition that while these cloth masterpieces played a role in the country’s changing historical and cultural landscape, the techniques, patterns, and fabrics used to create them were, in fact, part of the unchanging tradition of American quiltmaking. An exciting chapter in the book titled “CALLICOES OF EVERY COLOUR” states that in 1845 an English Schooner “Star of the West” struck on the rocks with a shipment of “callicoes” aboard. The whole deck was under water and the vessel and chains were covered with “callicoes” of every colour which was coming out of the wreck as the boxes broke up. A great deal of the dry goods were saved from the wreck by bringing them up by grappling and towing them to shore. The fabrics were taken to a store and washed in fresh water. The following day, according to correspondence between a Mr. Larkin, owner of the store and another merchant, the merchant offered $2.13 each for one dozen pieces of “figured muslin” and $2.00 each for a dozen pieces of “callicoe prints”. The other fabrics offered were pieces of mixed cotton cloth, book muslin, velvet, english silk, vesting, and “White Imperial”. Florence M. Montgomery, in TEXTILES IN AMERICA: 1650-1870 identifies imperial satin (closely woven cotton fabric,) imperial serge (lightweight twill of worsted and wool), imperial shirting (bleached cotton shirting) and imperial tape (stout cotton tape). A similar letter to another gentleman on the American ship CALIFORNIA brought a slightly higher offer $2.50 for the “figured muslin”. The article informs us that the fabric eventually sold for a much greater sum. The muslin was 32 inches wide, the calico 36″. Unfortunately no specific designs were described but they did note that the calico was of a “very good quality.” The market for the salvaged fabric continued for months. This gives us insight into how precious and in demand fabric was at this time. This book was published in conjunction with the exhibition with the same name which was organized by Sandi Fox and The Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising/Los Angeles and presented at the institute’s Museum & Galleries October 1- December 6, 2002. This book is a must-have. Sondra from NE Pennsylvania
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 16:58:38 -0400 | From: mreich@
Unfortunately, I deleted the inquiry about Fairs in the South. I have just found my book “Bazaars and Fair Ladies” by Beverly Gordon. There is oodles of info about 19th century fairs in both the North and the South. If the person who placed the inquiry is still interested, email me privately. sue reich
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 13:15:15 -0700 | From: “ChrisA” <chrisa@>
I have seen this Union fabric twice now. One of the quilts is owned by Kaye England and she showed it at a class I took with her two weeks ago. Perhaps she knows more. She did not mention it in class.
Both of the quilts were beautiful scrappy style from after the Civil War, the 1870s or 80s it seemed. I assumed it was a commemorative fabric. Let us know if you find out, please.
Kimberly Wulfert, PhD www.antiquequiltdating.com Email: quiltdating@
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 21:38:57 -0400 | From: “Cinda Cawley” <lrcawley@>
There is a small exhibit of antique quilts at the Cecil County (MD) Historical Society in Elkton, MD (when I was a kid people eloped to Elkton because you could get married without a license) until April 29. There are a couple of really spectacular quilts: a turkey red Mariners Compass dated 1848 and 3 turkey red Fleur de Lis circa 1850, a real feast for the eyes of a serious turkey red fanatic (I plead guilty) and an exquisitely quilted Chimney Sweep which might be a little bit older. These quilts look very Maryland to me. To see what I mean consult A Maryland Album by Gloria Seaman Allen and Nancy Gibson; I think a couple of them are in the book. Look for Cecil County in the index. The first piece we saw was a top called the Frances Montgomery Medallion. Zany is the word which best describes this enormous piece. Think of it as a Tree of Life carried to its extreme and beyond, with a undulating floral border with all sorts of weird grapes and berries. They have a half size pattern available for $12.00. A copy made from that pattern is hanging with the original and is very lovely indeed, but lacks the wild spontaneity of the big one. Most interesting of all (to me, whose taste does run to the bizarre) were two quilts made in Chester Co., PA. The best stuff is always from PA (my home state, lest anyone forget). Dawn and Barb, when the show is over the owner is bring these two pieces to the Chester Co. documentation. One is a strippy made from 3 separate quilts. It’s put together in 5 rows: Feathered Stars, Ohio Stars, applique album blocks dated 1849, Ohio Stars, Feathered Stars. Sneaking around to look at the back we could see that the quilt had been assembled in strips with a piece appliqued over the seams. Judging from the binding which looks 1880-1900 we guessed that the best parts of three worn or damaged old quilts (the applique blocks have water stains) were cannibalized to make this one. The result is striking and quite beautiful. I decided the trip would have been worthwhile if I’d seen nothing but a huge 9 block top, probably 1850 also, with every kind of appliqued motif of every size and color you can imagine strewn haphazardly across the surface of the blocks: birds, animals, fish, bugs, amphibians, people, a log cabin, tools, a well, Odd Fellows and Masonic Symbols with a border just as bizarre as the center. Cinda on the unbelievably beautiful Eastern Shore (it’s Spring!)
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 22:47:22 -0400 | From: “Teddy Pruett”
I’m not surprised that the California Bound book is wonderful. Often, when I am appraising, someone will absolutely gush and say “I want to do what you do. How do I start?” I have a bibliography that I hand out – it lists the typical books one by one, and at the bottom it says “Buy anything with Sandi Fox’s name on it.”. Teddy
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 14:56:51 -0400 | From: “Candace Perry”
Greetings listers: Non-quilty question: I am looking for information or resources on mid 19th century 3-dimensional wool needlework. The piece in question is done in what I consider to be Berlin-type colors, and I think it dates to 1850-1860. It is reminiscent of the typically PA German work that is made around tin patterns, but it’s a step further than that, with large complex flowers of different types. Being an incompetent needlewoman myself, I have no clue as to how it was produced. Could it be stuffed? Incidentally, I have an upcoming exhibit “The Needle Arts of Schwenkfelder Women” opening in May through the summer, if you’re in the mood for a little trip! It will include several quilts and magnificent (and I mean that sincerely) needle work from our collection, and and also some pieces on loan. The quilts are new to us so if you saw the last exhibit, there won’t be any overlap. On May 24-June 7 we’re having a show of new quilts from local quilters, plus the fabulous Quilt Bus on May 24 at our Frieyaahrsfescht (Springfest in PA Dutch). Thanks, Candace Perry Schwenkfelder Library & Heritage Center www.schwenkfelder.com
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 22:33:22 EDT | From: OzarkQuiltmaker@
Greetings from Ozark:
I am currently under contract with AQS to write a book on edge treatments fo r quilts.=A0 The tentative title of the book is Grand Finales.=A0 It will be published in about a year.=A0 I am looking for samples of quilts that have unique and interesting bindings and edge treatments.=A0 The quilts can be antique or new quilts.=A0 They can be any size or shape.=A0 If you have some thing that might be a good quilt to feature in the book, please send me two photos for consideration.=A0 I need a full view of the quilt and a close-up of the edge.
May Your Bobbin Always Be Full, Kathy Kansier AQS Certified Appraiser 310 Parsley Road Ozark, Missouri 65721 (417) 725-6502=A0=A0
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 11:36:28 -0500 | From: “Kathleen Lashley”
Good Morning!
I recently purchased a compiled set of 20 patterns of the “Quaddy Quiltie” designed by Ruby Short in 1916. The patterns I purchased are copies which were originally published in the Chicago Daily News.
I also know, from Deborah Harding’s “Red & White, America’s Redwork Quilts” that the patterns were also published weekly in the “St. Paul Dispatch”, the “Kansas City Star” and “other Midwest papers”.
Would any of you know where I might obtain a list of which specific “Midwest papers” these were published in?
Thanks for any assistance you can provide.
Kathleen Lashley Historic Foodways/Domestic Crafts Program Coordinator Old World Wisconsin Eagle, Wisconsin
Old World Wisconsin
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 04:50:55 -0700 | From: Judi Fibush <judi@>
Try Groves Publishing Co, at PO Box33068, Kansas City, Mo 816/361-1505-Dorothy Groves or Jill Sutton Filo at Charlotte’s Press in Akron, Ohio at charpress@. Both have done extensive research into these patterns and published same.
Judi Fibush
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 09:35:38 -0500 | From: “Jean Carlton”
Hi I picked up a book at a used book store entitled Dyes and Fabrics (The Thames and Hudson Manual of..) by Joyce Storey published in 1978. It’s loaded with information I found interesting but I thought I’d ask if anyone out there knows of this title and whether the information in it is currently reliable. Thanks Jean Carlton
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 09:16:18 -0700 | From: Newbie Richardson <pastcrafts@>
Candace, I have been trying to research a very similar piece that I picked up at an antique show last year. The dealer dated it 1860’s – but I do not think it is quite that early – based on colors. She did say she picked it up in PA. I am beginning to wonder if it is a regional style? At anyrate, it is very elaborate embroidery on black wool felt in very bright wools . I have several Victorian embroidery books – no mention of it in these. There are no examples in any of my museum/auction catalogs. I do not call it “Berlin” work, as I have always referred to that as the modern day equivalent of “needlepoint”. This is very full, fancy embroidery a true master work. I have seen similar examples either in a half circle or full circle – framed in antique shops – but there was never anyone to ask (who knew what they were talking about). I’ll keep digging. Newbie
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 09:02:30 -0700 | From: “Julia D. Zgliniec”
Dear Jean and QHL, This book IS excellent and a wonderful reference. As with most older books, new information has come to light, but this text still holds it’s own. It has a companion by the same author called The Thames and Hudson Manual of Fabric Printing which is even better!
Great find!
J
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 15:49:03 -0400 | From: Palampore@
I am still doing research on the expos. I will report my finding when I finish following leads. Thanks, Lynn Gorges (heading to the wonderful sunny beach!)
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 18:24:35 -0400 | From: “Pam Weeks Worthen” <pamworthen@> T
<pamworthen@> T
If any of you are within a decent drive of Dover, NH, you might consider a trip to the NH Seacoast for what I think will be a pretty cool fiber related tour. The current owner of the Cocheco Mill building is partnering with the Dover Downtown Committee to open one of the massive buildings to the public.
On the weekend of April 25-27, and again on May 9-11, there will be interpreted tours of the Mill. Small groups will be lead by costumed guides from the chilly cellar to the third or fourth floor (I lost count during the preview) and along the way they will be entertained by more than 150 costumed actors and actresses. These folks will be portraying mill girls, bobbin boys, overseers, strikers, newspaper editors, masons, archetects, etc.
The script was written by Cathy Beaudoin, local historian and expert on the mill history of Dover, with one of our local theater presenters. The group’s goal is to introduce the public to the amazing influence the mills had on Dover (pretty much why Dover is what and where it is today) Many aspects of mill life and working conditions will be included. I think I remember that there will be 27 or 30 “stations” where the tour will pause to hear about how many bricks were laid that doy during construction, or how many yards were woven and printed, or will overhear conversations between the girls who organized the first mill girl strike.
If you are sticklers about costume accuracy, you will be disappointed. BUT, for an overall experience, it should be quite a bit of fun. The tours are in the evenings on Friday and Saturday, and on Sunday afternoon. They have put blackout curtains on the windows, and the tours will be lead by guides with lanterns. the whole thing will be lit with lanterns, and they have wired the entire tour for sound. It was quite effective to have recorded looms booming all up and down the building.
At the end of the tour, the group will be led into a large room with a small show of nineteenth century quilts and fabrics (some are documented Cocheco prints) that Lorie Chase and I are putting together. We will be sharing the space with artists who have painted/drawn/etc mill images, a doll collection, and a display of quilts by members of the Cocheco Quilt Guild made with the P&B line of reproductions.
If you are interested, you must call the Dover Public Library for reservations. Tickets are $10 for adults. The number is 603-516-6050. They take credit cards.
We are opening the quilt show to the general public on Mother’s Day weekend, Friday and Saturday, 10-4, Sunday 10-5.
Pam Worthen
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 08:10:43 -0700 (PDT) | From: Judy Schwender
I sent this to a friend of mine in Boston and thought you all might like to see his reply. Jude,You realize that this is the same mill building complex which my Company (Liberty Mutual Insurance) occupied for office space for a period of about 15 years in the late 1970’s and through the 1980’s and into the early 1990’s. We helped the current owner renovate the raw abandoned industrial spaces (including the boiler house) into first class office space. The complex is a site to behold – the big 3-5 story red brick buildings sit right on top of a set of thundering natural waterfalls right in the heart of downtown Dover. A series of catwalks connect the mill buildings to the sidewalks on the surrounding streets. Dover is about an hour and 10 minute drive from us [Boston]and is an area and town we know quite well. Jack
Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2003 07:21:49 -0500 | From: Ann Hubbard
The Chili Queen is a new novel by Sandra Dallas who wrote “alice’s tulips” which takes place at the time of the civil war. CQ does not have to do with quilt history, but it does mention quilting and it takes place in NM in the 1880s. The book review says it is a novel of secrets and heartbreak, revenge and justice. It was for sale in the Quilt Sampler quilt store in Springfield, MO. So those of you who are looking for some light reading might find yourself enjoying it. I haven’t looked but Kris might even have it for sale. Enjoy. Ann
Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2003 17:08:01 -0400 | From: seater@
Has anyone else, especially in New England, run into this quilt-making event?
Stonington, Deer Isle, Maine Feb 12, 1953 local newspaper Island Ad-Vantages
“The Deer Isle Ladies Aid was collecting good warm clothing for Dutch relief and finishing a quilt to be shipped at the same time. Checks and money orders to help rebuild dikes and rehabilitate the country were to be sent to the State Street Trust Co in Boston.” – Susan
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 09:54:18 -0400 | From: Lesters <jeanlester@>
I have a 2 bed room at “the Inn, for Friday and Saturday nights. Anybody “need” them?
Jean
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 10:39:31 EDT | From: Midnitelaptop@
the warm and natural batting etc. company …just made a compassionate instead of and economic decision not to move the company from north carolina if you would like to express your thoughts about this warm decision(pardon the pun) you can go to http://www.warmcompany.com/email.html and send them a comment. jeanL
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 17:37:57 -0700 | From: “Julie Silber”
Hi All, Julie Silber here. I have a mystery and thought you smart QHL folks could help. We have a Sunflower quilt (dated 1934) currently listed on eBay. It is by far the most complicated and dense interpretation of a familiar design we have seen. What gives?? Is this the original Webster design that was later reinterpreted and simplified by Mountain Mist? Check it out if you get a chance, will you all? eBay # 2525672314 . http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=3D2221&item=3D2525672314&rd=3D1 Thanks in advance! Julie
