January 29 – February 2, 2004
These restored messages come from the Quilt History List, an online forum where quilt historians, collectors, researchers, appraisers, and enthusiasts discussed antique quilts and related textiles. The archive dates from 1996 through approximately 2016 and is being restored gradually. Sign up in the form at the bottom of the page if you want to know when a new page is added. Original spelling, opinions, formatting, and inactive links may remain unchanged.
Primary topics of this QHL Digest:
- Mold and Mildew Hazards in Old Textiles — A safety-minded post on handling contaminated antique fabric. (see the article on stain removal)
- Swedish Immigrant Novels and Frontier Life — A fiction recommendation thread ties into 19th-century immigrant history.
- Double-Sided (Reversible) Fabric, Explained — Members explain how and why reversible cloth was historically woven.
- New Members Welcomed — Several newcomers introduce themselves to the list.
Date: January 29, 2004 | From: “Newbie Richardson”
My brother went to St. Lawrence Univ.in way up state NY. He regularly went to class out his second story frat house window on snow shoes! Newbie
> morning to find the cabin under deep snow, their door impossible > to open and > their cow frozen to death against the house. >
Sally, Sounds like an interesting book- I hope someone recognizes it. FWIW, the door situation can still be a problem. I had a friend who was traveling on I-70 between Topeka and Denver, and had to take refuge in a motel because the highway was closed. The next day, when he attempted to leave his room, he found that the snow was drifted chest-high against the door! One good reason for building doors that open IN, in snow country. 🙂
Date: January 29, 2004 | From: “Sally Ward”
> This sounds like one of a trilogy of novels written about the Swedish > mmigrant experience in the late 19th c in the American upper Midwest.
I’m glad you said that. Some diligent Googling long into the night with very odd word combinations eventually led me to the very books you must be talking about, by Vilhelm Moberg. The third book in the series is called ‘The Settlers’, which sounds right by my recollection of a short title, and the names of the two characters were familiar (sadly at my age, though, I don’t know what is false memory syndrome any more <G>). I decided it sounded a good book even if not the right one, so its winging its way to me as I write courtesy of Amazon.
Sally W
Date: January 29, 2004 | From: “Sally Ward”
I > don’t even want to count the number of whole clothe quilts and petticoats > that were cut up for upholstery in the 1920’s and 30’s …sigh. We have > come a very long way in our scholarship!
Some of us still have a way to travel. After telling a class about North Country quilts here in the UK just a few years ago a student brought me in some fragments of a beautiful wholecloth quilt which I deduced from the pattern pffcuts must have been either child’s bed or large crib size quilted medallion style. It had once been a lovely minty green sateen. The fragments she brought had been out in the garage for cleaning shoes with. The rest of it had been cut up to cover a single bed headboard only weeks before.
*sigh* indeed!
Sally W
Date: January 29, 2004 | From: seater@
Dear Joan, Laurette, & Newbie,
Thanks for the full story and detailed explanations on the weighting of silks. Shows me again how only a little bit of knowledge can be dangerous, or at least misleading.
Is the arsenic or any other metals dangerous to those handling old silk garments and quilts, such as those setting up exhibits, etc, in a local historical society?
Susan Seater Raleigh NC
Date: January 29, 2004 | From: seater@
Edward R. Hamilton, Bookseller in CT , from whom I have bought books for decades (no affiliation), has Lynn Bassett’s _Northern Comfort: New England’s Early Quilts, 1780-1850_ from the Old Sturbridge Village collection on sale for $5.95 (orig $20). I recommend it!!
#3166368
Edward R. Hamilton Falls Village CT 06031-5000
Any number of books ordered by mail has one fixed postage per order of $3.50. You must send a check– no credit cards. Alternately, you can order online with a credit card and pay 95 cents more at HamiltonBook.com
Susan Seater in thawing NC
Date: January 29, 2004 | From: Joan Kiplinger <jkip@>
Susan — I would imagine anyone working around old garments, especially in a museum , would wear conservationist’s latex gloves which would provide protection. I’m not sure of the dangers of not wearing hand protection; it’s not inconceivable that if hands got sweaty and enough such garments were handled during the day, a rash or other complications could develop, especially if a person had certain allergies or sensitivities. Heavens, I get itchy, sometimes red palms just handling pennies from the copper and clothes from the drycleaner 🙁 . Maybe Newbie, Laurette or some of the curators know more about this.
seater@ wrote:
>Dear Joan, Laurette, & Newbie, > >Thanks for the full story and detailed explanations on >the weighting of silks. Shows me again how only a >little bit of knowledge can be dangerous, or at least >misleading. > >Is the arsenic or any other metals dangerous to those >handling old silk garments and quilts, such as those >setting up exhibits, etc, in a local historical society? > > > >
Date: January 29, 2004 | From: aol.com
In a message dated 1/29/2004 1:35:07 PM Eastern Standard Time, seater@ writes:
> > Is the arsenic or any other metals dangerous to those > handling old silk garments and quilts, such as those > setting up exhibits, etc, in a local historical society?
I seriously doubt it after such a long time. Also, remember that most of these garments/quilts were used and have had plenty of time to let any excess dissipate or crock. If you’re sensitive to dust you might wish to wear a dust mask or rubber gloves, but normal handling probably wouldn’t be a problem.
[of course it’s going to turn out I’m wrong, in which case I apologize in advance and yield to those with superior knowledge…:)]
Karen Evans
Date: January 29, 2004 | From: “Laurette Carroll”
promised several people that I would post photos of my great-great-grandmother, Perthina (love the name) Bailey, Garfield Monument on the picture site and I have done so.
Donald, thanks for posting those photos to the eboard. I was wondering of the Garfield Monument quilt came down through the family known by that particular name?
Laurette in beautiful Southern California
Date: January 29, 2004 | From: Judy Roche <jrocheqpil.net>
Sally, The books by Moberg are some of my favorites as he writes from the immigrants point of view -not someone who grew up here–and certainly not sanitized—they were written in Swedish and then translated—-some of the descriptions are so beautifuly written-two that come to mind are of the Missouri River, and in a later book when they first get a kerosene lamp-I would read them to classes—and now that I wrote those two many more come to mind—too many! The four books are The Emigrants,Unto a Good Land,The Settlers and Last Letter Home—the movies(The Emigrants and A New Land) did not do them justice(not a surprise, as four detailed books is daunting!) -but the actors they chose were very good–Max von Sydow and Liv Ullmann- and it is a good overview — And when you read or watch these books / movies one marvels that they had the time and inclination to make such marvelous quilts. If you like this type of book I would also say that Come Spring (set in early Maine) by Ben Ames Williams is a good one to look for . Actually, sitting here I just looked up at two book shelves of diarys and stories of settling this country—-love’em all! Think that the U of Neb re published the Emigrant series-not sure though. Enjoy them! Judy Roche in PA
Sally Ward wrote:
> > >>This sounds like one of a trilogy of novels written about the Swedish >>mmigrant experience in the late 19th c in the American upper Midwest. >> >> > >I’m glad you said that. Some diligent Googling long into the night with >very odd word combinations eventually led me to the very books you must be >talking about, by Vilhelm Moberg. The third book in the series is called >’The Settlers’, which sounds right by my recollection of a short title, and >the names of the two characters were familiar (sadly at my age, though, I >don’t know what is false memory syndrome any more <G>). I decided it >sounded a good book even if not the right one, so its winging its way to me >as I write courtesy of Amazon. > >Sally W > > >— >
Date: January 29, 2004 | From: “Newbie Richardson” <pastcrafts@>
Dear list, The single most dangerous hazard from exposure to old textiles is the mold/mildew spores contained in the dust. You can catch some VERY nasty illness from inhaling those particles. You need to wear a mask. In 30 years of handling old stuff I have never had a single problem with my hands getting rashes, or sores. But then, I have very “tough” skin! I never get rashes, and could probably sleep in a patch of poison ivy and not be affected! Newbie
Date: January 29, 2004 | From: “Cinda Cawley”
Hi Sally and Judy et at., I’d like to put in plug for my favorite chronicler of early America in fiction (from Pennsylvania, of course), Conrad Richter who wrote the trilogy The Woods, The Fields, The Town. Cinda on the Eastern Shore
Date: January 31, 2004 | From: sewsewsarah@
I would like to say thank you to everyone who has recommended the historical books. I love to read accounts of those who tried to make a new life in this country. Thanks for sharing those!
~~Sarah in West Virginia~~ <><
The LORD bless you and keep you; the LORD make his face shine upon you and be gracious to you.
Numbers 6:24-25
http://groups.@/group/ContentToBeAtHome/
Date: January 31, 2004 | From: Sylvia Adair <piecethepastwi.@>
Hi, all. I’m trying to help a nice lady on another list locate information about a quilt kit probably made in the 1920s-30s. She has several finished blocks, made in two shades of blue (for the flowers) and nile green (for a sort of heart shape). On the selvege of the blocks is printed ABC Chicago USA Copyrighted (the word copyrighted is partly gone and I’m guessing at it). On a different edge is printed “Pond Lily” and still a different one says No 4258 Quilt Block 18″. I have looked through my meager resources on the 1930s and have not found anything. I thought I’d ask the experts, I hope this is okay. The owner would just like to know more about her blocks. I can post pictures to the bulletin board if you like, or just email pictures to anyone interested. Thanks in advance for any help you can give us! Sylvia Adair, quilter and librarian in Germantown, Wisconsin piecethepastwi.@
Date: January 31, 2004 | From: debbie henderson <debinatorclassicnet.net>
Hi,
I’m a new member to your wonderful list. I found out about ya’ll from a friend who is on another list that I’m on.
I’ve been quilting for 15 years, and professionally restoring quilts for 10. I am a 4th generation seamstress, having inherited most of my families sewing items, quilts, coverlets and textiles. I’m an avid women’s history buff, and enjoy reading the State quilt project books, as well as books based on diaries and letters. I collect and use vintage sewing machines, including treadles and handcranks.
I work from my home studio and share my life w/ a wonderful husband, 2 great kids (both of which can sew), and many animals.
I will enjoy this list a lot, as I’m sure there is alot of information out there which will help me out.
Thanks,
Deb in Celina, Tx
Date: January 31, 2004 | From: “Maurice Northen” <3forkshighstream.net>
Welcome Deb, I also work as a conservator in Temple, Tx. What you can learn here is just like going to college everyday!!!
Joan Northen
Date: January 31, 2004 | From: “Marcia Kaylakie” <marciark@>
Hi Deb, I’m over in Austin! Have me chatted before? I seem to recall your name. Let me know a little more about you as I am always needing to know where the resoration people are in the state! Marcia Kaylakie
Marcia Kaylakie, AQS Certified Appraiser Austin, TX www.texasquiltappraiser.com
Date: January 31, 2004 | From: “Marcia Kaylakie” <marciark@>
Hi All on both lists! I need to ask a question before I start a project here. Does anyone know if DMC has changed their numbering on embroidery floss since 1990? I am recreating an old quilt and am wondering if i have gotten the right color because the floss color doesn’t seem to match the only photo that I have! Thanks, Marcia Marcia Kaylakie, AQS Certified Appraiser Austin, TX www.texasquiltappraiser.com ——=
Date: February 1, 2004 | From: Joan Kiplinger <jkip@>
I don’t remember who asked about 3-cord thread but here is some additional information I found in the Handyman’s Dry Goods Dictionary. This may truly leave you more confused than before 😀
Spool cotton or sewing thread — The original basis of sizes was formed when it was spun and twisted into three-cord for hand sewing. When three strands of No. 40 yarn were twisted together, the size of the thread was called No.40 although it acutally measured three times as large around as No. 40 yarn. All other sizes were likewise determined. When six-cord began to be made to fill a demand for smoother cotton for machine work, the numbers were not changed but the yarns used were twice as fine, leaving leaving the actual size of the thread the same as before when only three strands were used insead of six.
No. 40 thread, when of three cords or strands is made of No. 40 cotton yarns; six No. 80 yards twisted together when it is six-cord as is most of the spool cotton at present. All other sizes are likewise produced in American mills but the foreign thread markets change their basis at No. 60 which is made up of No. 110 yarn instead of 120; 70 is made of 120; 80 of 130; 90 of 140; 100 of 150 and so on.
Date: February 1, 2004 | From: “J. G. Row” <JudyGrow@>
Marcia,
You said the color looked different on a printed card? I would trust a swatch before I’d trust the color in print on paper!
To my knowledgement it hasn’t changed, but they have added many colors and I mean many….also the color lot is different on alot of colors…could that be it? Or is it really really different? I have alot of older colors if you would like to tell me the number I’ll check my colors and try and describe the color to see if that might be it.
Just ask Wanda
Date: February 1, 2004 | From: Teri Klassen
Sally thankyou for your comments about frame quilts. In Averil Colby’s Patchwork book are a couple of pictures of repeating block quilts with Basket blocks, I think red and green on white. she dates them about 1830 I believe. one I think from Devonshire, can’t remember the other. is this date reliable? were red-and-green quilts, and repeating block quilts common, or at least extant, in UK ca. 1830? thankyou. Teri
Date: February 1, 2004 | From: “Marcia Kaylakie”
Thanks one and all on the wonderful help with the DMC embroidery floss. It is indeed the mauve color and has been verified by several of you who are knowledgeable in this area. Now I must admit, I’ve never seen redowrk in this color but the pattern is from 1990, so….I guess mauve was the “hot” color then. Got to be accurate in these things. Thanks!! Marcia Marcia Kaylakie, AQS Certified Appraiser Austin, TX www.texasquiltappraiser.com
Date: February 1, 2004 | From: “Lynne Z. Bassett”
I should have responded to this sooner, too, but I got distracted and forgot. In the collection of Old Sturbridge Village, there is a man’s tailcoat made of a cotton fabric that is printed on both sides–it is a simple tan and white geometric pattern, but different on each side. It dates to the 1830s, if I remember correctly. I’m afraid I don’t know anything more about the subject, though.
Best, Lynne
Date: February 1, 2004 | From: “J. G. Row” <JudyGrow@>
Every time I go to a large quilt show I am drawn as by a magnet to the booths that have Japanese indigo printed fabrics. Always the most wonderful are the ones which are two sided, that is, printed with totally different blue/white prints on either side. I just googled every permutation of those words that I could think of and couldn’t find any sites that had any to show you. They are usually only about 14″ wide, and are always the most expensive fabrics in the booths. They are being made today, so someone, somewhere knows the secret of how it is done.
Judy “Ringo” in Ringoes, NJ judygrow@
Date: February 2, 2004 | From: “Wanda” <fattyoldkidhouston.@>
To my knowledgement it hasn’t changed, but they have added many colors and I mean many….also the color lot is different on alot of colors…could that be it? Or is it really really different? I have alot of older colors if you would like to tell me the number I’ll check my colors and try and describe the color to see if that might be it.
Just ask Wanda
Date: February 2, 2004 | From: <chrisa@>
That’s a good point Judy. I have seen those too, but rarely. Margot at Reproductionfabri@ might know about this.
I think Connie and Lynne’s versions would be roller or block printed as opposed to vat printing as the indigos are. So the process would be different too.
I wonder what the purpose of double sided fabrics is? Why would a tail coat be so- to eliminate backing it? (I know little to nothing about men’s clothing.)
Kim
Every time I go to a large quilt show I am drawn as by a magnet to the booths that have Japanese indigo printed fabrics. Always the most wonderful are the ones which are two sided, that is, printed with totally different blue/white prints on either side.
Date: February 2, 2004 | From: Joan Kiplinger <jkip@>
Connie and Lynn – if I read both of your comments correctly, the type of reversible cloth you mention is called duplex printing, sometimes referred to as registered or duplicate printing. Fabric can be printed separately on each side by passing it twice through a machine or sides can be printed simultaneoulsy by a special machine called a duplex printing machine. These printing operations simulate woven patterns when design is the same on both sides. This is as explained in Fairchild’s Textile Dictionary and even though I would imagine this is a more modern method, earlier printing methods would probably be printing fabric in two-step operation.
Date: February 2, 2004 | From: “Lynne Z. Bassett” <lzbassett@>
> I wonder what the purpose of double sided fabrics is? Why would a tail coat > be so- to eliminate backing it?
The tails of men’s coats in this period are often unlined because the wool fabric they are generally made from is heavy enough to have good body and thus not need lining except along the center back slit. (In fact, the wool is so heavily fulled, the fabric is not even hemmed–the edges are cut and left as they are, and they do not ravel.) This 1830s coat of the double-sided print is a heavy cotton (for summer wear) that has pretty good body and if it were solid-colored (as are most other summer-weight coats of this period) it would not be lined, at least in the tails. A coat made of a *printed* cotton would look best with a lining–or, in this case, with another design printed on the reverse side. It’s a cosmetic–not a structural–need, as you suggest.
Best, Lynne
Date: February 2, 2004 | From: Joan Kiplinger <jkip@>
This is from the 1911 Encyclopedia and gives some insight into reversible printing and some of uses for this fabric. Drapery fabric is also another use as well as coordinated clothing. If anyone has Florence Montgomery’s book, I believe there is a home furnishings section which might elaborate more on this type of printing prior to the advent of the duplex machine.
From the 1911 Encylopedia: In recent years many improvements have been made in printing machines and many additions made to their already wonderful capacities. Chief amongst these are those embodied in the Intermittent and the Duplex machines. In the former any or all of the rollers may be moved out of contact with the cylinder at will, and at certain intervals. Such machines are used in the printing of shawls and sarries for the Indian market. Such goods require a wide border right across their width at varying distancessometimes every three yards, sometimes every nine yardsand it is to effect this, with rollers of ocdinary dimensions, that intermittent machines are used. The body of the sarrie will be printed, say for six yards with eight rollers; these then drop away from the cloth and others, which have up to then been out of action, immediately fall into contact and print a border or crossbar, say one yard wide, across the piece; they then recede from the cloth and the first eight again return and print another six yards, and so on continually.
The Duplex or Reversible machine derives its name from the fact that it prints both sides of the cloth. It consists really of two ordinary machines so combined that when the cloth passes, fully printed on one side from the first, its plain side is exposed to the rollers of the second, which print an exact duplicate of the first impression upon it in such a way that both printings coincide. A pin pushed through the face of the cloth ought to protrude through the corresponding part of the design printed on the back if the two patterns are in good fit.
Date: February 2, 2004 | From: “Eileen Trestain” <ejtrestain@>
I have seen some mid 1800’s fabrics which are printed on both sides, also, but whose styles were very different. The fabric itself was linen, but the print styles appeared to be from two different eras. We speculated at the time that the manufacturer might be printing on leftover goods, as the type of prints appeared to be over 40 years apart. One side appeared as a large scale furnishing fabric, and the other a small scale print.
Eileen ——=
